 Poster: A snowHead
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[Info on buying tickets for Paris RER updated]
It's much more straightforward and cost effective than many people think to travel out to many of the French resorts by train. I thought it would be handy to pull together the key information about how to this all in one place. I'm hoping others who have travelled out by train will add to this (@Inboard, @Arctic Roll) and I can edit this first post as necessary to keep the info in one place.
I "blogged" about my first trip by train here, which includes some photos. Since then I've done 3 more trips and learned some new tricks.
The journey is generally:
- Eurostar London St Pancras to Paris Gare du Nord
- Metro across to Paris Gare de Lyon
- direct SNCF TGV to station in valley (for e.g. Moutier Salins for Val Thorens, Courchevel, Meribel, etc, Albertville for Les Saisies, Grenoble for Les Deux Alpes)
- bus or taxi up to resort
It's that simple. I've always chosen to travel over to Paris on the Friday night and stay near Gare de Lyon, which I can easily do as I don't work Fridays and gets me up to resort generally early enough for a couple of hours' skiing. You can do the journey in a day, though, and I do on the return.
Buying train tickets
Annoyingly, SNCF don't release train tickets until ~3 months before travel, which is long after the Eurostar fares are at their cheapest. I book the Eurostar as soon as I know I'm travelling and then set an alert on SNCF Connect so that I can book the TGV tickets as soon as they're released. It's always been worth me buying a Carte Avantage even for just one solo trip. As soon as there's 2 people travelling or you're doing more than one trip it really pays off.
For an idea of costs, for our we've paid £88 return each for Eurostar in January and €91 each for the return TGV to Albertville. On top of that is €49 for a Carte Avantage, which I hope to get more use out of.
Using an Interrail pass
It's worth checking if you can save by using a 4 days in a month Interrail pass. Depending on dates and how late you book, this could save money. It's free for children up to 11, so you only pay the seat reservation fees (~€80 euro for London to Bourg St Maurice return). It also has the advantage of covering the UK legs to and from St Pancras so long as they're on the days you enter and leave the UK.
You can check in advance if there are Interrail spaces lefts on the Eurostar and TGVs before you buy the Interrail pass, using this website and this website respectively.
Getting to St Pancras
This was a part of the journey that always put me off. If you're using an Interrail pass, then it's covered. If not, it's worth buying a ticket to London International CIV. The London International CIV tickets seem to be one of the most closely guarded secrets in train travel. Their basic advantage is that you're covered by the International Conditions of Carriage, but they're often cheaper (off-peak fares during peak times). Annoyingly, the only way I've found to purchase a ticket to London International CIV is in person at a ticket office, so I'm very glad they're not closing.
Luggage
I've taken my skis on every trip. It's best to pack them separately, in a simple bag, as then they fit in the overhead luggage rack. I travel with a holdall with wheels, a small rucksack and my skis in a bag with a shoulder strap. (On most of the TGVs I've been on, skis are too long to fit in the luggage spaces at the end of the carriage, so there's nowhere to put the big "coffin" bags.)
Getting across Paris
This is the bit that seems to really worry some people and I'm still not sure why. It's 2 stops on RER D and is no more difficult physically than getting a transfer bus from the car park at an airport. There's a good guide here. Even if the RER D isn't running (as has happened to us once), you just go on RER A and B, with no need to change platforms in the middle. The little paper tickets for the metro can still be purchased on the Eurostar at the moment, but they're only in use until after the Olympics. The new system is to use a Navigo Easy card - this is a bit like an Oyster card. You can purchase a Navigo Easy card for 2eur at vending machines in Gare du Nord and other major metro stations - look for a machine marked "Ici, vente de passes Navigo Easy". They look like this. The machines helpfully let you choose a language up front, so you can do the process in Englishor at least something not wholly dissimilar to English 
Getting from the station to resort
Altibus operate bus service between many valley stations and resorts. The prices are very reasonable For e.g. Moutier Salins to Val Thorens is €20 return. I'd recommend booking in advance, as the buses are popular. Alternatively, there are generally local taxi firms who will get you up to resort for a reasonable price. Last year we paid €35 each for the return trip from Moutiers to La Tania.
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Fri 2-02-24 17:38; edited 2 times in total
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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You can get to quite a few ski resort in France really easily by train. Snowcarbon have published a map of the resorts you can get to and the relevant station.
The Tarentaise resorts are particularly easy to get to using the Paris to Bourg St Maurice TGV, which also stops at Albertville for access to the Espace Diamant.
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@sugarmoma666, great thread.
Not much to add - Interrail is a great tip especially for those of us whose trip starts a long way from London.
My favourite tip on ski/ train travel was from @mgrolf: carry a bungee or length of cord, then you can lash ski bags vertically to grab rails. Definitely helps to make it easier if that’s the way they need to travel!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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We do this trip too, but stay Friday evening in the premier inn hub near King’s Cross usually about £85-£90 if booked well in advance. It’s then 10 minute (max) from hotel room to check in.
As sugarmoma66 says let’s hope Eurostar continues to sell the metro tickets as that’s a great hack to save hassle in Paris.
Another hack I learnt here is that you can park at Stratford international for £60 something for the week, which for us in Essex maybe worth doing. Although I’ll be checking the London international CIV to see if it’s cheaper for two
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Good post. I agree, the crossing of Paris is an absolute piece of duff. They say you need an hour to do it, but the first time I went, it took me under 20 mins from the Eurostar arriving in PGdN to me standing on the right platform at PGdL.
I wasn’t aware they were phasing out the RER tickets on the Eurostar. That was one of the best tips I got from The Man in Seat 61.
I’m planning on skiing this year by train as well as my summer holiday to Cannes. A friend of mine swears going via Lille, so if anyone has experience of that, that could be a good addition to the post.
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@drporat, thanks for that. I had seen the app but I'm trying to avoid it if possible. Having to have a different apps for so many things frustrates me, and is a barrier for those who are less technically able. I also don't like my phone getting clogged up with lots of apps.
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I’ve used Eurostar since it started in 94 from Waterloo international. Sometimes for skiing sometimes for other trips.
If you are crossing Paris to Gare de Lyon you are best off allowing at least an hour between trains if you have ski gear and kids in tow. That allows for short delays with Eurostar, the rer journey and finding your way up from the rer to the right part of Gare de Lyon which has two departure halls. Then grabbing a decent coffee before joining the train if you like a proper latte.
Bear in mind the RER is fine at quiet times but if you hit rush hour it can be so packed you might not get on the first train.
I personally prefer having a stopover in Paris on the way out as that means you can arrive in resort by lunchtime. Coming back we take the earliest train from the alps, put our gear in left luggage at gare du Nord and spend an afternoon in Paris and can still get home that day but we are in the south east.
Children under 4 used to travel free on eurostar but I’m not sure if this is still the case. We paid for standard premier and two seats were wide enough to have a child between us.
Tickets are much cheaper if you can buy them the day they come out and this means buying eurostar first and then the french part later. Sometimes non changeable first class tickets for the tgv are not that much more than second class tickets but bear in mind the non changeable bit.
@Timmycb5, I used to sometimes take the train to Cannes for work  and it is amazing how quickly one gets to Marseille but it is a bit slower after that as it winds it’s way along the coast on a slower line.
I went to Toulouse by train this summer eurostar plus tgv and it was most enjoyable. It is only 3 hours from Paris to Bordeaux and then another hour or so to Toulouse.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Though I've not done it there is still the sleeper train to Briancon from Paris for Serre Chevalier, Mongenevre etc., but you really need to get to Paris quite early on the Friday as it leaves at 20:50
I just had a look at going out on December 19th and there are no direct trains on thetrainline from Paris to Bourg st Maurice. However if you need to change trains at Chambery it is very straightforward.
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I did my first trip to the alps (Austria) last winter report here:
https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=162064&highlight=
If we didn't now live in Austria, i'd look in to doing it again next season, it's just a lot more tricky and expensive from where we lived near Bristol. It's almost a no brainer if you're London/South East based.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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@johnE, I have taken the Briancon sleeper train. It is ok if you have the right number to have a compartment to yourselves. However this was some years ago so I’ve no idea if they have renewed the rolling stock.
Usually we prefer to take the TGV to oulx in Italy from where there is a bus to Montgenevre and Briancon.
However I have read that there is an issue on the TGV line near Modane this year so it might be a good year to try the Briancon sleeper service instead
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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My daughter in law spent a lot of her young life in France and is very environmentally conscious and has become something of an expert on French trains. Today she had to book the family to Avignon, when school breaks up for Christmas. She said it took her quite a while, even though she is good at it. They are going to Lille, then a five minute walk from one Lille station to the other, then direct train to Avignon. She said it was a lot cheaper doing it that way than by Eurostar. I wouldn't know where to start.
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@pam w, surely she is still using Eurostar but taking it to Lille instead of Paris? Maybe she is comparing this journey to the direct eurostar which used to run from London to Avignon
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You know it makes sense.
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@pam_w seat61 is literally the train geeks bible for all things
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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She specified that the London - Lille train is a tgv. Not sure whether that is different from Eurostar.... she did specify they'll need to change stations in Lille but said it was very easy.
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Poster: A snowHead
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However I have read that there is an issue on the TGV line near Modane this year so it might be a good year to try the Briancon sleeper service instead[/quote]
No trains going through Frejus tunnel until possibly next summer
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@sugarmoma666, quick Q when you book your Friday evening Eurostar, how much it it? We’ve always stayed in London, but thinking your option of a late Friday train, Paris night, early Saturday could mean a half day ski extra
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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| Lucywuk wrote: |
| @sugarmoma666, quick Q when you book your Friday evening Eurostar, how much it it? We’ve always stayed in London, but thinking your option of a late Friday train, Paris night, early Saturday could mean a half day ski extra |
That's why we do the overnight in Paris. If you book early enough you can still get the £39 fares on most of the trains.
I stay in the Ibis Styles Paris Bercy, which is 10-15mins walk from Gare de Lyon. The twin room I have booked for a Friday night in January is €144, inc breakfast. Breakfast is served from 0630, which works fine for catching the 0746.
The price of hotels near Gare de Lyon is quite variable, presumably depending on what's on at the Accor Arena.
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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If you’re not pushed for time in getting to Gare de Lyon, taking the bus rather than the RER is another option, more pleasant in my opinion, and gives you a chance to see a bit of Paris go by. Google maps tells me it’s a No. 91 (I’m sure when I did it last I had to change).
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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I have travelled to Les Arcs for 9 years on the trot - always using the train. Either Eurostar direct to Bourg or to Paris and changing.
Tips:
Drive to Stratford International and park in multistorey - its a short train or tube into Kings Cross from there and much cheaper for parking.
If travelling to Paris and Changing to Gare de Lyon - buy your metro tickets on the eurostar to save time in the train station buying tickets at the machine. They are available in packs of 10 and dont have an expiry date.
Eurostar direct is no where near as comfortable as changing onto a TGV which have better leg room and more comfy seats.
Take Bungie cords for strapping ski bag into luggage rack or standing it up and strapping it into the luggage area.
Take an extension cable with 4 plug availability and all your chargers in for various electronics if with a family as this enables easy charging on long train journeys
On arrival if travelling to Les Arcs you can use the funicular for free if you show your train ticket at the funicular ticket office (your lift pass will give you access also if you are skiing that day). Once in Arc 1600 you can utilise free shuttle busses to get to all the Arcs
Directions for return journey: When arriving in Gare de Lyon Hall 2, head towards Hall 3 and follow signs to metro. You need Line D North for 2 stops via Chatelet de Halles. At Gare De Nord head upstairs from metro platform following signs for "Grandes Lignes". Head up the stairs following these signs going up 2 floors and walk all the way round to the left. Eurostar is up a final set of stairs. It takes 30-40 minutes from arriving at GdL on the train from Bourg, to being in the Eurostar queue. The queue can sometimes take a long while compared to London.
It takes 11 minutes (timed it) from arriving into London St Pancras and getting across onto a train out of Kings Cross back to Stratford.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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@Macker13, your tip about buying metro tickets on the Eurostar won't work any more (or will stop working very soon.) See my opening post.
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@sugarmoma666, I bought metro tickets on Eurostar in August. Are you sure they are being phased out.
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Great thread. Very helpful.
One tip for getting metro tickets in the station is to walk straight past the huge queues of people at the first set of ticket machines in Gare de Lyon. There are more machines further along and they are almost always empty.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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Still not as easy as getting on at Ashford and off in Moutiers or Bourg - oh I wish proper ski train was back!
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You know it makes sense.
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French train unions are calling for strikes over the Xmas and New Year period - nothing formal in place currently but something to be aware of maybe.
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Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@Dippy, yes, park up at Dover then overnight in couchettes. I used enjoy it.
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Poster: A snowHead
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| Macker13 wrote: |
It takes 11 minutes (timed it) from arriving into London St Pancras and getting across onto a train out of Kings Cross back to Stratford. |
Except you stay in St Pancras and catch the South Eastern Services on Platforms 11-13. Basically same level as Eurostar, but on other side of fence. About 1 every 15 minutes
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Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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| Dippy wrote: |
| Still not as easy as getting on at Ashford and off in Moutiers or Bourg - oh I wish proper ski train was back! |
sadly it's looking like the Kent stations won't be used until 2025 at the earliest 
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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Does anyone know when the direct Paris-Bourg trains go on sale? We are going 6th April and I was hoping the direct Saturday train would be on sale for that, but at the moment it's just showing a change at Lyon and I'm now worried there won't be a direct train then!
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You need to Login to know who's really who.
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@james6502, I was told it's 3 months in advance, you can also set up an alert to tell you when the tickets come out on the SNCF website
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Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I'm driving out to Les Arc with an old buddy on the 27th of March, whilst our wives and kids are taking the Eurostar to Paris on the 28th. They then spend a couple of days enjoying Paris whilst we have a couple of days "proper" skiing before they get the TGV down to Bourg on the Saturday. I've booked the travel out and return for them on the Eurostar and am patiently (not so much) waiting for the TGV tickets to be released, which I'm told is 3 months in advance, sop around the end of December, start of January.
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You'll need to Register first of course.
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Thanks! That’s basically the same as our situation but the 3 months part is very helpful to know, I’ll panic a bit less!
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@james6502, If you're going to Les Arcs, it's also worth noting that you'll get a free ride up to Arc1600 on the funicular on production of a train ticket to Bourg (not sure if anyone has mentioned that on this thread previously), then from 1600 there are free busses to all the other major areas (1800, 1950 & 2000). The funicular is only a short walk from the station, and the two are connected by a foot bridge.
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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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Thanks all! That’s really useful info
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| snowymum wrote: |
@johnE, I have taken the Briancon sleeper train. It is ok if you have the right number to have a compartment to yourselves. However this was some years ago so I’ve no idea if they have renewed the rolling stock.
However I have read that there is an issue on the TGV line near Modane this year so it might be a good year to try the Briancon sleeper service instead |
Wont be back in service until 2025
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FAQ
