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Zermatt and Cervinia 2023-2024

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
sbooker wrote:
I’ll be in Aosta for 5 days in very early February. We tried a trip to Zermatt from Cervinia a few years ago but were unsuccessful due to high winds. I am determined to make it happen this time. I’ll obviously try to pick the day with best weather forecast.
Assuming I’m successful which mountain cafe/restaurant is best for views of the Matterhorn? Preferably not nose bleed expensive. I understand Zermatt is pricey but something Aussie dollar friendly. Smile


Most of the restaurants have good views of the Matterhorn. They are deliberately positioned that way. As a general rule the self service restaurants at the lift stations (eg Trockener Steg, Furgg, Riffelberg, Sunnegga) are better priced but of course have a more functional atmosphere. The top notch restaurants are in Findeln. But that is quite a way north from the border. Nearer the border the restaurant at Stafelalp is superb (but expensive) and has a superb Matterhorn aspect. I like Chämi Hitta. It is on the slope coming down from Riffelalp to Furi. It is not too expensive. The one that might suit you is the restaurant at the Schwarzsee hotel. It is at the lift station. Not too expensive and a nice location. Also close to Italy to get back.
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Second day of men’s racing cancelled because of too much snow again. There really has been a ton dumping down these last few days. Great for the base but a pity for the races. Loads more snow in the forecast this week (with high temperatures it will be a high snow line but should not be a problem in the ski area). Looks a bit more settled going into next weekend so fingers crossed for them two days of women’s racing.
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As well as the lifts above Plan Maison on the Italian side, the pistes down from Trockener Steg to Furgg are opening tomorrow. So a really good area of skiing is now open. For some reason the Theodulpass is not opening. So you have to connect between the two countries at Testa Grigia (using lifts to/from Cime Laghi Bianche and to/from Plan Maison). Bit of a pain but a minor whinge compared to having so much open mid-November.

Rain lower down hasn’t affected the ski area (in fact it has come as snow and helped things on piste). Snow coming through this evening – and lower temperatures
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@JohnMo, Many thanks. I’m not there till Feb, but in Crans Montana early Jan. snow down to village/ town there too.
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Hello, what sort of weather event needs to occur for the Cervinia area to get fresh snow? retour d'est? cold front from northwest ? Nordstau? any of them?

I'm thinking of doing a weekend in Cervina in March this winter, but I've never been to this corner of Italy, so I'm less familiar. I know it's high so snow will stay in good condition for longer. I also believe its on the main alpine ridge, so it might be sensitive to more than 1 weather event. I'm a keen offpiste snowboarder, so always on the quest for powder.

Will probably stick to the Italian side, it's big enough for few days
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ck_v2 wrote:
Hello, what sort of weather event needs to occur for the Cervinia area to get fresh snow? retour d'est? cold front from northwest ? Nordstau? any of them?

I'm thinking of doing a weekend in Cervina in March this winter, but I've never been to this corner of Italy, so I'm less familiar. I know it's high so snow will stay in good condition for longer. I also believe its on the main alpine ridge, so it might be sensitive to more than 1 weather event. I'm a keen offpiste snowboarder, so always on the quest for powder.

Will probably stick to the Italian side, it's big enough for few days


A retour d’est is certainly the best for Cervinia. But a strong system from any direction can see Cervinia getting dumped on. Weaker systems from any direction can end up not making it. There can also be significant differences between Cervinia and Zermatt. For example Zermatt does not do as well from weaker retour d’est systems while Cervinia might lose out on systems from the North West. As a Swiss (part time) resident the most frustrating systems are the ones directly from the West. Bloody Montblanc casts a huge snow shadow covering Verbier and Zermatt. So we can see Crans Montana on the other (north) side of the Rhône valley and Cervinia on the south side of the Alpine Ridge getting dumped on while we are getting nothing. Fortunately systems tend to come from all directions (well not so much from the direct North) so by March Cervinia should be great.

If you are going off piste in Aosta it is the law that you must have an avi beacon and avi gear. Also a lot of the best off piste routes start on the glacier. By March the snow bridges should be fine but glacier skiing is never to be taken lightly. If you can afford a guide it would certainly enhance the experience enormously.
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Quote:


ck_v2 wrote:
Hello, what sort of weather event needs to occur for the Cervinia area to get fresh snow? retour d'est? cold front from northwest ? Nordstau? any of them?

I'm thinking of doing a weekend in Cervina in March this winter, but I've never been to this corner of Italy, so I'm less familiar. I know it's high so snow will stay in good condition for longer. I also believe its on the main alpine ridge, so it might be sensitive to more than 1 weather event. I'm a keen offpiste snowboarder, so always on the quest for powder.

Will probably stick to the Italian side, it's big enough for few days


A retour d’est is certainly the best for Cervinia. But a strong system from any direction can see Cervinia getting dumped on. Weaker systems from any direction can end up not making it. There can also be significant differences between Cervinia and Zermatt. For example Zermatt does not do as well from weaker retour d’est systems while Cervinia might lose out on systems from the North West. As a Swiss (part time) resident the most frustrating systems are the ones directly from the West. Bloody Montblanc casts a huge snow shadow covering Verbier and Zermatt. So we can see Crans Montana on the other (north) side of the Rhône valley and Cervinia on the south side of the Alpine Ridge getting dumped on while we are getting nothing. Fortunately systems tend to come from all directions (well not so much from the direct North) so by March Cervinia should be great.

If you are going off piste in Aosta it is the law that you must have an avi beacon and avi gear. Also a lot of the best off piste routes start on the glacier. By March the snow bridges should be fine but glacier skiing is never to be taken lightly. If you can afford a guide it would certainly enhance the experience enormously.


Very informative. We will pick the destination closer to the date, but yeah good base, fresh snow, enough pistes for the group, are the requirements. Budget accomodation too (in case anyone has recommendations). re: Aosta legal obligations/avi equipment. Interesting. I wasnt aware. I've got it anyway. but tbh, without a guide, I stick to "side piste" offpiste stuff (and appropriate behavior based on avalanche reports, etc.)
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
ck_v2 wrote:
without a guide, I stick to "side piste" offpiste stuff (and appropriate behavior based on avalanche reports, etc.)



I know you said you will stick to the Italian side. However one good reason for coming over to the Swiss side is the itineraries (shown as yellow on the piste map). Cervinia does not have itineraries (I am not sure anywhere in Italy does). But for someone who enjoys off piste, itineraries are a great way of getting similar experience in a marked and controlled (but not pisted) environment. By March the itineraries should be in good shape (the best ones don’t open until February).
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@ck_v2, the good thing about Aosta is there are lots of resorts. In my experience, La Thuile and Courmayeur often get hit harder by (given) storms than Cervinia. I think someone explained previously that it was because the fronts get mashed up on the (other)side of the Alpine Ridge and some snow falls over into those two resorts, but doesn't make it in to the other valleys further on. Cervinia seems to benefit less from those storms at least. I think it is more tucked in so I've noticed quite a few times that predicted snowfall was lower for there than La Thuile or Courmayeur. Not to say it doesn't happen. Prob best off piste day I ever had was there, really cold snow off the front face directly under the main lift. Superb, the only time I got a genuine face shot I think (so refreshing!).

If you want to be flexible you can just book your flights and then choose resort closer to the time. Again, in my experience, Cervinia has lots of accommodation and is more flexible for short breaks than most other resorts, so you will be fine to go there last minute if off piste is good.

If not, La Thuile is a very chilled resort and I had a fantastic last minute trip there last season. It links over to La Rosiere in France which has a great dedicated off piste area. There are also a few bowls on the way over to La Rosiere and a fantastic mountain over there that is well known for bootpack descents off the lift that leads to the off piste area. The mountain kind of looks pyramidical, can't remember its name, but I'll be back to do it with a guide at some point for sure.

Also, don't forget there's another holy grail off piste destination in Alagna, linked to Champoluc and Gressoney. Again, the valleys are tucked in so in my experience looking at the forecast, appears to get less snow, but I'd love to hit them in the right conditions. In fact, they're number one on my list of resorts I'd like to ski.

So if you're willing to be flexible just book the flights (Turin is closest) and then choose resort a day or two before. I don't think you'lll go far wrong in any of them.
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Average per-season snowfall stats...

Cervinia = 390cm
La Thuile = 360cm
Courmayeur = 230cm
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Source? Can't find anything online. Weathertoski had La Rosiere at 6 meters or something so I'd be surprised. Also wonder how its measured. Cervinia town is a lot higher than the other two and therefore would expect more annual snow fall.

Anyway, just my impression watching the storm forecasts.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
8611 wrote:
Source? Can't find anything online. Weathertoski had La Rosiere at 6 meters or something so I'd be surprised. Also wonder how its measured. Cervinia town is a lot higher than the other two and therefore would expect more annual snow fall.

Anyway, just my impression watching the storm forecasts.


I wouldn’t pay him any attention. He has never been to the area. He picks random figures off websites with no understanding of what they might or might not mean on the ground. Your perspective of the different areas is very interesting.
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@8611, Cervinia (resort) is only 150m higher than La Rosiere (2000m vs 1850m). I would expect La Rosiere to receive more annual snowfall than Cervinia given their respective locations, at resort level anyway.

Apart from around Mont Blanc, the Aosta valley is a relatively dry region, and Zermatt on the other side of the ridge is famously so. Though the low snowfall is retained well - inneralpine position means good protection from thaw.
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You know it makes sense.
@denfinella, yeah that's what I thought

Still love em all, horses for courses
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JohnMo wrote:
I know you said you will stick to the Italian side. However one good reason for coming over to the Swiss side is the itineraries (shown as yellow on the piste map). Cervinia does not have itineraries (I am not sure anywhere in Italy does). But for someone who enjoys off piste, itineraries are a great way of getting similar experience in a marked and controlled (but not pisted) environment. By March the itineraries should be in good shape (the best ones don’t open until February).


Out of curiosity, do travel insurers generally consider itineraries to be off-piste? (Appreciate the devil is in the detail...)

I'm definitely not good enough for any off-piste yet (!), but sounds like a great way to get started...
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 Poster: A snowHead
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@inthecold, insurance specific I feel. LV insure me for offpiste, but within resort boundaries. Ambiguity from the off. As a just off the piste offpiste, I would crawl to the piste!
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twoodwar wrote:
@inthecold, insurance specific I feel. LV insure me for offpiste, but within resort boundaries. Ambiguity from the off. As a just off the piste offpister, I would crawl to the piste!
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Not sure what I did there!
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@twoodwar, oh I see, that's good to know – I thought specialist insurance was required. I get Aviva insurance through Barclays, which has these exclusions:

• Bobsleigh, cresta, luge, skeleton
• Freestyle skiing or snowboarding
• Off-piste skiing (unless accompanied by a qualified guide at all times in areas the resort management consider to be safe)
• Heli-skiing
• Glacier skiing
• Ski flying, jumping, stunting, or surfing
• Ski racing or training
• Ski mountaineering

I guess the Swiss itineraries would fall under "areas the resort management consider to be safe"?

Bizarre how glacier skiing is excluded without exception. I need some new insurance Very Happy
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inthecold wrote:

Out of curiosity, do travel insurers generally consider itineraries to be off-piste? (Appreciate the devil is in the detail...)

I'm definitely not good enough for any off-piste yet (!), but sounds like a great way to get started...


This comes up every couple of years on SnowHeads. For example:

https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=47904

The answer is … err.

I have (unguided) off piste insurance so it is not an issue. When friends and family who do not have such insurance visit I get them to get the lift company insurance. Not a bargain but at least you know you are covered. One issue is that there is only a single pole. So there is no clarity of when you are “on” the itinerary- 10m to the side? 20m? 30m? It is all personal judgement. You might regard yourself in good visibility on an area you have already skied to be fine 50m to the side of the pole. An insurance company might not.
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@8611, I found super cheap flights to Milan with v good timings, so we will go from there. As you said, quite a few options in the area within 2hrs drive. Monterosa and Cervinia are both on my radar but if there is an infamous "retour d'est" event while I'm there/days before, I would definitely want to travel to west of Turin. If a cold front from the north west, probably Courmayeur or La Thuile. Then for the other interesting resorts, I'm less knowledgeable about what needs to happen over the months/weeks/days for the base and the snow to be good.
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ck_v2 wrote:
@8611, I found super cheap flights to Milan with v good timings, so we will go from there. As you said, quite a few options in the area within 2hrs drive. Monterosa and Cervinia are both on my radar but if there is an infamous "retour d'est" event while I'm there/days before, I would definitely want to travel to west of Turin. If a cold front from the north west, probably Courmayeur or La Thuile. Then for the other interesting resorts, I'm less knowledgeable about what needs to happen over the months/weeks/days for the base and the snow to be good.



Great plan. Hope it works out for you. Others might know better (I am usually coming from the Swiss side or going Milan -> Zermatt) but the public transport links never seem as easy on the Italian side. If you hire a car at Milan you need to make sure to specify that you want winter tyres. Unlike in Switzerland they do not come as standard.
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@inthecold, in Zermatt the main piste downtown Trockner steg is all on a glacier!Not sure how your insurance would. Over that? It’s the only real way home from Cervinia.
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8 Lifts running in Cervinia today. snowHead
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Temps showing a big tumble next weekend, with a chance of a bit of snow
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Hello
I am planning to drive to Cervinia after Christmas. I am trying find parking places to book but couldn’t find any. Can someone please advise on where to look for?
Also I am planning to drive from England, any advice on planning the route will be helpful.

Thanks
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Anyone have any idea why only one lift was running in Zermatt / Cervinia today - Friday 24th Nov? Am planning on being there next week Thurs-Sun and am getting worried nothing will be open
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Too windy.. looks like it will ease off by next thursday: -

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You know it makes sense.
Wildsmith wrote:
Too windy.. looks like it will ease off by next thursday: -

Very Happy
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csb wrote:
Hello
I am planning to drive to Cervinia after Christmas. I am trying find parking places to book but couldn’t find any. Can someone please advise on where to look for?
Also I am planning to drive from England, any advice on planning the route will be helpful.

Thanks


There is lots of free parking available either at the bottom of town before the roundabout and near the golf course (next to the Metzelet bar). I believe there is also parking near the Plan Maison Gondola station but have only ever stayed in town so have never had to venture up there for parking so not sure if it is chargeable or not.

Only issue I have had using the free parking is having to find/dig-out/move the car a couple of times in a week when there was very heavy snow so they could clear the car park properly.
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Gogs wrote:
csb wrote:
Hello
I am planning to drive to Cervinia after Christmas. I am trying find parking places to book but couldn’t find any. Can someone please advise on where to look for?
Also I am planning to drive from England, any advice on planning the route will be helpful.

Thanks


There is lots of free parking available either at the bottom of town before the roundabout and near the golf course (next to the Metzelet bar). I believe there is also parking near the Plan Maison Gondola station but have only ever stayed in town so have never had to venture up there for parking so not sure if it is chargeable or not.

Only issue I have had using the free parking is having to find/dig-out/move the car a couple of times in a week when there was very heavy snow so they could clear the car park properly.




Thanks!!
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Looking good on the ground in Zermatt. Riffleberg, and Sunnegga webcams showing good cover.
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The Swiss have opened up the Riffelberg to Gifthittli lift (just below Gornergrat) a week ahead of the main opening. I often criticise the Swiss for not opening lifts when they could (the Italians are much better generally) so this is good to see. Mainly only Swiss residents at the moment of course - the tourists start coming next week.
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@JohnMo, Cervinia side has 9/16 lifts working today. Plenty of good skiing to please.
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skimastaaah wrote:
@JohnMo, Cervinia side has 9/16 lifts working today. Plenty of good skiing to please.



Yep. The Italians do a great job. It is great to see that the Pancheron lift is open as it is really nice coming down from there. Definitely one of the occasions when being high has a real advantage. That snow a couple of weeks ago was fantastic but so much was lost lower down when that heat and rain came through - but not really any damage in the skiing areas of Cervinia and Zermatt.

Interesting that they haven’t opened up the Vertina from Testa Grigia down to Laghi Cime Bianche (the highest bit of skiing in Italy. That was where the races were meant to take place. I wouldn’t if they are still returning the area to normal.
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Last night’s weather system certainly delivered (and is still continuing). Another good dump coming later this week (that slight blip up in temperatures towards the end of the system should make no difference).

Blue skies but very cold for next week’s opening. Should be great for those out there (that will include me).

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And Valtournenche have confirmed they are opening this Friday. That is the “projected” opening date. But they tend to set an early date that some years they can’t make. Salette (the equivalent “central hub” to Plan Mason) is at 2245m but the whole bowl faces south - which is lovely but can mean more melting. So really good news.
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Have to say the snow is still coming down nicely in town! It is a good start from my armchair view of the webcams.
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Pistes announced for tomorrow’s opening. Pretty much as expected. The exception is piste 26 down from Breitboden to Gant via Grünsee. To get from the Gornegrat area to the Rothorn area you will have to ski to the top of the lift at Breitboden and download on the chairlift. Weird. I can’t imagine what is going on there. There is certainly enough snow so it must be something else.

• Piste Nr. 51 «Weisse Perle»
• Piste Nr. 61 «Skiweg»
• Standseilbahn Zermatt – Sunnegga
• Wolli Anfängerpark
• Sesselbahn Eja – Sunnegga mit der Piste Nr. 6 «Easy run»
• Kombibahn Sunnegga – Blauherd mit der Piste Nr. 7 «Standard»
• Pendelbahn Blauherd – Rothorn mit den Pisten Nr. 11 «Rotweng» und Nr. 19 «Fluhalp»
• Sesselbahn Hublot-Express Gant - Blauherd
• Pendelbahn Gant – Hohtälli mit der Piste Nr. 44 «Hohtälli»
• Piste Nr. 29 «Kelle» bis Bergstation Sesselbahn Breitenboden

All very exciting. The real season starts now.
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Dear Cervinia experts. I am going to Cervinia 15-20 Dec and cant wait Very Happy

But I see the link to Zermatt is closed on the Cervinia.it website - anyone any idea if it will open by the time I arrive so Zermatt is equally skiable?

Also the website says the Matterhorn Alpine crossing is closed till 22nd Dec for maintenance - now this is new (I’ve been before but memory is hazy) and links the Glacier paradise to Plateau Rosa right? But we dont need it if the Glacier paradise lifts is running?

Finally I am seeing mentions of nearby Torgnon on the same lift pass - we will have a car - isnis worth visiting. Maybe it will be important if the Zermatt link remains closed?

Thanks.
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