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Les Arcs 2022 / 2023

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Transarc must be due for an upgrade. It’s a real crappy lift
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Boris wrote:
Transarc must be due for an upgrade. It’s a real crappy lift
Work starts on replacing it this summer. Not before time.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
rob@rar wrote:
Boris wrote:
Transarc must be due for an upgrade. It’s a real crappy lift
Work starts on replacing it this summer. Not before time.


Used it a couple of times.in early March and have to agree, really don't like the mid station and the bottom always a scrum
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stevew wrote:
Used it a couple of times.in early March and have to agree, really don't like the mid station and the bottom always a scrum
The mid station can be useful in really bad weather (when the top half of the lift remains closed) as well as providing an opportunity to get to 2000 without having to go all the way down to 1800. I assume the new lift will continue with two stages. But I hate the gondola cars themselves, the standing room only design is never an enjoyable way to get up the hill. I think the new lift will be an 8 or 10 person seated design, so will be a whole lot nicer than the current thing.
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Went up it today to the midstation. The rest was closed. We only did it because we'd missed the turnoff to charmatoger. Not much I can say except it was I remembered
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We have had everything weatherwise today: snow, rain, sun, cloud, and fog. The fresh snow depth was about 10cm but this quickly got packed down and a bit rutted. Late this afternoon it was starting to get heavy from about 2000m downwards and slushy approaching arc1600. But there is still almost universal coveragev

The ridge between 2000 and 1600/1800 was closed all day with a lot of avalanche blasting going on. Most of the 2000 bowl was closed as well. I think the influx of skiers from 2000 by bus and the Satuday day trippers meant that the pistes were a lot busier than they have been all week. There was even some queues at the Vagere chairlift
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rob@rar wrote:
stevew wrote:
Used it a couple of times.in early March and have to agree, really don't like the mid station and the bottom always a scrum
The mid station can be useful in really bad weather (when the top half of the lift remains closed) as well as providing an opportunity to get to 2000 without having to go all the way down to 1800. I assume the new lift will continue with two stages. But I hate the gondola cars themselves, the standing room only design is never an enjoyable way to get up the hill. I think the new lift will be an 8 or 10 person seated design, so will be a whole lot nicer than the current thing.


Yes - the replacement will have two stages, in mostly the same place as the current stations (the top station will be moved over slightly I think). The cabins will be similar to the ones on the new-ish Vallandry lift. Agree it is due for replacement - our standard comment is that "Transarc" is the French word for 'uncomfortable"...

Real mix of weather and snow today - a bit of everything. Lifts and pstes quiet.
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After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@rob@rar, good to hear, I may have to return
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Pleased to say that we have arrived. Arrived around 1845 and it had been snowing on the way up. Still snowing, albeit lightly now.
Very happy to be here, and have enjoyed a beer and a cocktail at the bowling alley place, and now settled into our accommodation.
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Beautiful day in 1800.

Question for the knowledgeable folk. Are there lockers to hire in 1800? Preferably in the Villards area? Happy to pay. We're in Ruitor Residences and I'm already bored of lugging skis all the way to Evolution2 which is where the sprogs are having lessons.
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After so many year skiing Les Arcs there, it was only this year friends introduced us to the delights of using Villards to catch Carelley to get back over, rathe than having the double dip of Vagere / Arpette if avoiding TransArc (which like it appears everyone else on here, we do!). 100% worth it.


On the case for a 'mid station', I hear that the new Villaroger bubble slated for next season to replace the creaking old lifts over there, WONT have one - ie you'll need to ski to the bottom to get out of that part of the domain.
OK, they've put in the snow making, but... shurely shome mistake?
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Excellent snow this morning for blasting around the piste, firm and smooth underneath with a soft top. Museum was the highlight, but the east facing secret below was getting a bit more soft and lumpy.

The 2000 Valley is as usual quite busy but no queues anywhere, even walked straight onto the varet lift. It's a lot better than it was yesterday on the 1600/1800 side.

A lot more English voices being heard.
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Sorry auto correction on my phone changes muguet I to museum.

I think the demountable chairs are being run slower to save energy at the moment.
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
Concur. Absolutely fantastic snow today, but slushy on the way back into 1800. Hard on the legs, particularly when we ended up walking though it at the bottom.

Nervous husband loved Mille8 in the morning, but agreed the slush was hard work in the afternoon, so agreed to go up on a chair.

We took Vagare up and then followed the blue signs back to 1800 via Arpette. Some sections that husband initially was wary of as they were less 'cruisey' than the initial Arpette, but he got down them all controlled and comfortably. I think his confidence is being restored by the minute.

He was done after that, so he and Boy9 went for a pint and a play in the snow. Boy11 and I got Vagare back up and did Charmettoger blue leading to Reches red back down to 1800 twice. I've been a previously nervous red skier, but I found that one to be wonderful and well within my capabilities. Boy11 is better than me so if there's any other red recommendations based on liking that one, we'd love to check them out. Also, mire cruisey blue recommendations to check out please.

Back in the apartment now. Boys are like zombies. Both have bright red faces. We've bought suncream, and three will not be leaving without it on tomorrow.

First day verdict is that we love Les Arcs!
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Good to hear your view of 1800, the snow arriving a particular bonus too Very Happy

For a good area to explore, go transarc to 1st Station, plan bois direction peisey/vallandry, (its straight in front of you when you get out) plan Bois chair, right at top on Reynard, this takes you to upper area of Vallandry.
This is a huge very gentle area with café etc and varied lifts to play around on just acres of snow. Stay up in the top half there rather than drop down to vallandry. All excellent for bringing skills along.

Nothing wrong with lower piste to vallandry, the reds are great, wide usable and without big element to make you feel its too difficult. Worthwhile to reccy with 11yr old first while the others enjoy the gentle upper I'd suggest. Obviously I can't see the current conditions, but it will be more slushy right diwn if you want to avoid.

It's a really easy traverse back to 1800 and very well signposted for you, that's from the mud part of mountain so the less hung no family members won't have their confidence ducked out of them.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Thank you! I've had Plan Bois recommended to me before and that was the plan until 9 talked us into Vagere/Arpette. I saw what I think was Plan Bois when I came down Charmettoger and then turned right onto Reches.
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Owlette wrote:
Boy11 and I got Vagare back up and did Charmettoger blue leading to Reches red back down to 1800 twice. I've been a previously nervous red skier, but I found that one to be wonderful and well within my capabilities. Boy11 is better than me so if there's any other red recommendations based on liking that one, we'd love to check them out.


@Owlette, Belette underneath the Derby chair and Arolles under the Mont Blanc chair are probably right up your alley.

Nice little red pistes that are easily accessible from blues. You can check them out from the lift as well.

The Mont Blanc blue is also fantastic, but the last section (shared with Belette) is hard work in warm temps.


Last edited by Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person on Mon 3-04-23 11:24; edited 2 times in total
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@Owlette, The upper part of Vallandry is definately where the nervous skiers want to be. Though I personnaly I would take a differnt route. From the midstation of the Transarcs or the top of the Charmatodger chairlift follow the blue Plan Bois piste down. Keep your eyes left as the turn off to Vallandry can be easily missed. Reasure the husband that the road though the trees only last a short while. Then you come to the Derby Chairlift Though I have skied Les Arcs for almost 40 years I do not know where the Plan Bois chairlift is. Take this up and follow the blue actoss to the 2003 chairlift. As @ski3, says, do not drop down to Vallandry if you can help it in the afternoon. The snow will be soft. However, the Barmont piste is really nice.

While at the top of the Derby lift look up to the left. This is the start of the Reche piste. You can see why in the past it used to be a black.

As to straightforward reds to attempt may I suggest Arolle at the top of the Cachette lift in 1600 and Clocherette from the top of the lift with the same name. There is a great selection of reds coming down from the top of the Vagere lift but I suggest not descending any further than the Traverse piste then following that back to 1800 (I know it really finishes in 1600, but that bit is currently closed)
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Derby used to be called "Plan Bois" some time ago.

Can't remember if it was replaced and renamed at same time Very Happy

As @johnE, says, it's now called "Derby" and covering same route.

The whole area over there is just really good for bringing skills up in safe environment though.

I memorably got passed by a skier near the Cafè with a triple extension ladder on his shoulder, complete with bucket of tools hanging on one end Very Happy
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@ski3, IIRC the Derby lift went in about 20 years ago. I was very impressed that these huge lorries were able to drive to the bottom of it. I couldn't remember a chair in that position before so I assume there must have been one. I do, however, recall the two drag lifts that used to service that part of Vallandry the track of which is now the bosses piste.
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Vallandry for us tomorrow. Though he's told me 'if you push me to go somewhere I'm not comfortable with, I'll make my displeasure known to you'. Though it sounds like if he can get down from the top of Vagare to 1800, he should be fine above Vallandry.

Anyone know if there are still paper maps in LA? Couldn't find any earlier. I've got the Yuge app, but everytime I try to pinch in to look closer at the pistes and plan a route, it pings me back to my blue dot rolling eyes
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johnE wrote:
@ski3, IIRC the Derby lift went in about 20 years ago. I was very impressed that these huge lorries were able to drive to the bottom of it. I couldn't remember a chair in that position before so I assume there must have been one. I do, however, recall the two drag lifts that used to service that part of Vallandry the track of which is now the bosses piste.


Yes, just dug out an old piste map, 2003 and its still on there as "Plan Bois" thinking I just call it tgat because of the area name rather than specifically remember the lift was called that.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Owlette wrote:
Vallandry for us tomorrow. Though he's told me 'if you push me to go somewhere I'm not comfortable with, I'll make my displeasure known to you'. Though it sounds like if he can get down from the top of Vagare to 1800, he should be fine above Vallandry.

Anyone know if there are still paper maps in LA? Couldn't find any earlier. I've got the Yuge app, but everytime I try to pinch in to look closer at the pistes and plan a route, it pings me back to my blue dot rolling eyes


Honestly feel that he'll enjoy that.

The main area of skiing there is of just acres of snow rather than specifically a piste, freedom to wander around without impediment. Its not even far across from you, making it very simple.
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Owlette wrote:
Vallandry for us tomorrow. Though he's told me 'if you push me to go somewhere I'm not comfortable with, I'll make my displeasure known to you'. Though it sounds like if he can get down from the top of Vagare to 1800, he should be fine above Vallandry.

Anyone know if there are still paper maps in LA? Couldn't find any earlier. I've got the Yuge app, but everytime I try to pinch in to look closer at the pistes and plan a route, it pings me back to my blue dot rolling eyes


Yes - the paper maps still exist. Loads in the reception of the Mercure if you are nearby. Agree on Vallandry and Plan Bois - wonderful scenic skiing.
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Arpette lift still closed today BUT it is no longer stationary - periods of it running empty cycles today. Fingers crossed that this means they have fixed it and are testing for reopening. It's a useful lift to avoid having to drop into softer snow at this time of year.
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Just loading the car ready for the drive home. Aiming for a 20:00 shuttle.

It's a shame as it looks a nice skiing day. It's -1here in 1600 at the moment so all the pistes should have refrozen overnight.

Have a good day all of you who remain.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Derby replaced Plan Bois in 2007. If you haven't seen this website before, it's definitely worth a look.

https://www.remontees-mecaniques.net/bdd/reportage-tsd6-du-derby-leitner-1769.html
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195062, what a brilliant site. Thank you.
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You know it makes sense.
@Yukon, fingers crossed for reopening - when we last passed it, they're taken the entrance lines down so assumed that was it.

The runs from top of Derby down towards Vallandry are great for all - choice of gentle blues via Vallandry bowl or more challenging reds or blacks if required.

Hope everyone has a great week this week - despite some shocking weather and closed lifts we had a great week last week.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Arpette is open today. Skied past it about 15 minutes ago.

Conditions fabulous above Arpette. Just below it is frozen slush, so very bumpy. About Folie Douce level it then thaws to slush, but as its early ish still, still very skiable.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Yep, great to see Arpette open again today. Mix of snow conditions today - spring snow low in the 1800 bowl, a nice start on Grand Col and fabulous conditions above Derby in the afternoon.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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On the shuttle to blighty now. An excellent run up through France then straight onto a train. We'll be driving on the left less than 11 hours after leaving les arcs without breaking any speed limits. (Due to the weather, the lack of traffic, and freakily getting straight on the train rather than anything we did)
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
I think today was my best ever day of skiing. Loved every second. Husband and children feel much the same way.

Started this morning skiing solo, thought I'd check out the blues around Vallandry without Husband so that I could better guide him. All fine, and enjoyed the tree lined run of Plan Bois. But then turned right to follow the Vallandry sign. This was a steepish blue that was also a bit icy, so whilst I got down without incident, I'm glad Husband wasn't with me. In hindsight I should have gone straight on as I think that would have linked me to Maitaz, which is where I popped out.

Then I headed up Vagere, and back down via Arpette, past the Arpette lift and back down to 1800 past La Folie Douce.

Collected the sprogs and had lunch, Husband met us at this point.

Quick lap of Mille8, but 1800 was already getting slushy so we went up the Transarc to the top and skied Col de la chal, Plans de eux etc until we reached 1950. Stopped for lunch round 2 at Meli's in 1950 (thank you Snowheads for the recommendation), then out the other side, up the Bois chairlift, and down to Folie via Arpette 3 (with a stop for a photo at the Les Arcs sign at the top of Carreley), Col des Frettes and Belvedere.

Husband and Boy9 stopped at LFD and Boy11 and I did Vagere chair up and red Vagere down. Thoroughly enjoyed myself, though the length and steepness at the end of the day was felt in my legs.

I joined husband for several drinks and a dance at Folie, whilst Boy9 played in the snow and Boy11 did laps of Vagere/Villards and back to us (he can't sit still).

Husband LOVED LFD, but it's exactly his type of music. We all enjoyed the ski through 1950. Very novel to ski down the street.

Snow was perfect up high, only really starting to get slushy near the bottom of the Arpette lift. Husband loved the blues we took from the top of the Transarc down to 1950. He was very comfortable. We opted not to do Plan Vert as it requires the first 100m to be done on red and he baulked at that. I've said I'll check it out alone to make sure it works for him.

All in all, a truly fantastic day.
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Oh, and having now been on the Transarc, I understand all the hate upthread. Though as my husband is 6'2, he could cheerfully perch. Not often he's more comfortable on a mode of transport than me!
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@Owlette, great to hear of your enjoyment. The 'red' to Plan Vert isn't - the redness comes a lot later in the run - after you get back to the 1800 side really.

Plan Vert itself does start with a steep entrance - albeit very, very wide, and with a view of the runout: it is something that will cause a nervous skier little heart flutter, and then the adrenaline rush will kick in! On the flatter bits, it also has a bit of a camber to skiers left, which is 'interesting', and can, possibly, unnerve some.

The other blue from that 'red' - it really isn't! - is the Dents de Peigne . which is even more gentle, but underused for beginners, yet affords remarkable views of the scenery. Used to be a route off the Grand Reynard lift (ah memories) but since that was taken out, is hardly used at all. Give that an explore too.
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I concur with @Arctic Roll, the Dents de Peigne is a beautiful run and almost always deserted. If you want to stop in the snow and have a picnic that's where I would go. Not only is the view of the resort and across to La Rosiere wonderful but the jagged teeth themselves are quite scenic. I have no idea why that top bit to the Col Grand Reynard is marked as red. OK it's a road and I'm not fond of roads but it is less steep than many blues in the resort. Mont Blanc, for example, is far harder and that is a blue. I wonder if the fact that you cannot get to Dents de Peigné without going on a red piste is the reason no one does it. It's too flat for a red run cruiser yet the only way to get to it puts off the blue run potterer.

Give it a go.
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@johnE, Mont Blanc is only a red at the top bit, which is a bit steep and narrow. I guess it remains a Blue as the original run started lower down, where the old lift went to.
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@Boris, In the past, there was a drag lift from the top of the old Mont Blanc chairlift called Deux Têtes and from that there was a black piste of the same name (now sadly gone). When they put in the new Mont Blanc chair lift they blasted a new piste taking a wide sweep to the east at a much gentler gradient. It was quite a big bit of engineering work.
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@johnE, oh yes, the Deux Tetes black. What a place for power hounds after a dump. A fairly vicious start to the tow too IIRC.
A mate pulled his calf in there - was a real struggle for the blood wagon to get him down!
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@Arctic Roll, The very first time I ever went to Les Arcs was early in my ski career, 1984, we had rented an apartment in Arc 1600 just above the tunnel. It was a mystry booking with a tour operator who flew us to Lyon then allocated resorts on arival (it was very cheep). I'd done a couple blacks in Italy before and thought "no problem". Well the Deux Têtes was a different game. It was unpisted, covered in powder snow and bl**dy steep. I loved the whole trip which is one reason I bought an apartement in 1600.

You can still do it, only now there are no piste markers or, I assume, patrols. It's still steep, moguled and often covered in powder snow.
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