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Austria: Zillertal 2023/24

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Well that was a fun day.

1. Get delayed at Munich so arrive in Mayrhofen at 18:06...or to put it another way 6 minutes after ski hire/ski school/supermarkets closed. rolling eyes

2. Get up to be at the SPAR for 07:30 having checked the opening time the night before to find it closed. Check again and register the "Tuesday" part of "Opens at 07:39".

3. Back to base and rush kids out to be stood outside hire shop at 8am for opening while another member of the group heads to ski school to sign the kids in. While sorting ski hire watch the TV showing webcams showing wind speeds at a sensible 25/30 kph - gusting to 80kph...

4. Rush from ski hire to pick up ski passes while trying to spot somewhere open for tea and pastries (that child #1 won't reject) to shove food in children's faces. Get stuck at ski pass desk as although the human behind the counter is happy we're booked and paid, and have a valid collection voucher the computer says "No". While sorting that get the announcement that nothing from Mayrhofen will be opening today and all get to breath!

5. Everything sorted and while having relaxed and very nice breakfast at Heublume Cafe check resort lifts and find while everything else closed Rastkogelbahn/area open so (foolishly) give children choice of bus (from stop 50m from accommodation) or drive.

6. Drive from Mayrhofen to Rastkogel, discover the quite predictable lack of free parking spaces so drive back to the closed gondola station at Finkenberg. Park in the empty car park and catch the (exact same bus we could have caught from 'home') bus to Rastkogel.

7. Have an enjoyable, if rather slushy half day's skiing in a mix of sun and brief, light snow.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
@flicky, looks like possible rain first thing then a better day ahead. Really hope the wind disappears!
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Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
I went to Kaltenbach this morning, as I got off Airport taxi duties as the OH's work was shut with Mayrhofen being closed. Plan was to ski to Hochfügen going and practise in the transceiver park and then come home. That plan was scuppered when they closed the Wedelexpress not long before I arrived at the bottom of it. Not sure if that opened again later in the day as @flicky's post suggests it might have done.

So back to the main lift station in Kaltenbach, lift down, and timing's wise worked out pretty well with the OH driving back up the valley form the airport to pick me up.

Weather not looking great tomorrow, but i'll get out anyway even if I sit in the Unterbergalm hütte all day as they're closing for the season tomorrow.

Loving these light evenings though having not long got in from a dog walk up around Finkenberg/Astegg.
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Beautiful spring skiing in the sun from Thursday.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/2771725
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Today in Mayrhofen is: Wetter than an Otter's pocket.
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Mjit wrote:
Today in Mayrhofen is: Wetter than an Otter's pocket.


At 4am Mayrhofen was almost +18c, yesterday peaked at +19.6c … is that record breaking for March?
https://www.wunderground.com/dashboard/pws/IMAYRH12
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@Mjit, kids got soaked this am and I couldn’t muster enough enthusiasm from the team to ski in the dry this pm! Never mind will be better tomorrow.

The snow colour after the Sahara sand is pretty bath looking. I assume it takes the wax off quickly?
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Matrix wrote:
@Mjit, kids got soaked this am and I couldn’t muster enough enthusiasm from the team to ski in the dry this pm!


Don't think I'd have left the apartment if I wasn't skiing with friends and their children! Had one refusal at the start of lunch - but less the rain and more ego of a short 8 year old boy getting pit in a group with similar height 5 year-old Very Happy

Thankfully dried up after lunch and we even found something I'd actually call snow at the top of Horberg.
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@Snow&skifan, I'd say it's not untypical for this time of the year. The fist time I took the kids to the Hof was 2001 for 10 days, after day 1, jackets weren't worn again for the entire holiday, shorts and Ts in the village. We tend to get a mix of pow days and hot sun in general in the years since.

It's the hot temps in the village and generally high chance of sun that brings us back every Easter.

I also tend to do a couple of weeks in Jan to do the more conventional ski trips.

https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?p=2124833&highlight=family#2124833
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@Mjit, it was snowing quite heavily there. Should be better tomorrow. Head high!
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I was in Mayrhofen over Easter weekend. The original plan was to ski somewhere on the way down Zillertal on Saturday, so probably Kaltenbach or Zell am Ziller, then two different places on Sunday and Monday. As it turned out, the wind was very strong and many lifts were closed, and we didn't fancy piling in with the crowds to ski in a hurricane in the remaining areas, especially as we'd have to pay for the privilege (€72/day Shocked ), so we sacked it off and drove up later in the afternoon. Sunday was no better, so we went for a walk, stopping off at Zimmereben for a Kaiserschmarrn and free schnapps. Lovely.

Looking up Zillertal towards Ramsau. I believe that's the Zillertal Arena in the background, but correct me if it isn't. As you can see, not much in the way of snow.


The wind continued through the night and woke me up several times. On Sunday night it was accompanied by torrential rain which continued into Monday. Given that the snow line was forecast to be around 2200m, we headed up to Hintertux in an attempt to get above it. Unfortunately, only Gletscherbus 2 bubble, Lärmstange 1 chair and the lifts on the Sommerberg side were running because the wind was still pretty high, so we missed out on a lot of the area. We couldn't initially find Lärmstange 1 because the visibility was so bad, but got some nice smooth turns in around Sommerberg. By lunch time we, and everyone else, were absolutely drenched by the wet snow and rain falling, even at that altitude.

At around 2500m, snow was soft but very clumpy:


There was also a lot of Sahara sand:


When the rain finally stopped in the afternoon and the visibility improved, we could see that coverage was surprisingly thin:




Between the pistes, a lot of rocks were showing, and there were some very large green areas. The valley run was not open. I had expected it to be busier because of the high temperatures making other areas unpleasant, but maybe a lot of people simply stayed in. If the higher sectors are open today (or this week), there should be some nice snow to be found, if it's not too wind affected.

We “lost” 2 out of 3 days skiing, but I already know not to buy lift passes in advance, so we made the best of the weather we had. Thanks for the restaurant recommendations and the tip about booking – I got on it immediately and was able to get tables at El Toro and Goldkind, which were both excellent.
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@Scarlet, lots of snow although it is deteriorating quickly with the heat and rain. The picture posted of the valley shows green below mid station which is quite normal for this time of year. Over the top and up high there is plenty of skiing as you cannot see from the valley the top. There is one more week of the season and it’s the worst I have seen it for some years with Eggalm link now closed. Saying that we had a great day skiing up high today with typical spring conditions.

Saturday forecast is 28 degrees in the valley. Shocked
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@Scarlet, you're right that is the Zillertal arena in your picture and if your photo was pointing slightly further left, i'd pretty much be able to see my place Very Happy

As @Matrix says, that snowline is pretty much the middle station, and there was plenty of skiing up and above that, or there certainly was the last time I was there anyway.

We didn't even bother skiing yesterday. The Unterbergalm didn't open due to the weather, so that meant it's been closed every day now since Thursday last week and is closed for the season now.

We actually drove up to the outlet stores at Brenner, which apparently seemed to be a very popular thing to do yesterday in the rain! We also seemed to time our return journey at the same time as the whole of Germany were headed home from their holidays in Italy!
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
@swskier, The reason I was surprised at the snow line really, was that the last time I skied was 2 weeks ago in Stubai. Up there, the coverage was plentiful, even to the bottom of the valley run. As the crow flies, Stubai isn't that far away from Hintertux, so I was surprised to see such a difference, but it's also entirely possible that the last two weeks have done the same there as well.

And yes, I too have made the mistake of trying to cross the Italian border on a national holiday weekend. I will not do it again Embarassed Too add insult to injury, my partner got a speeding ticket on the last few km into Innsbruck, when the traffic finally started moving after a 5hr queue rolling eyes
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@Scarlet, we arrived 1.5 weeks ago and there was a lot of snow up at Hintertux. Snow covering the valley floor at Hintertux. This foehn wind has been terrible. Also I always feel that Stubai gets hit by snow more than Hintertux. That Brenner pass or maybe that’s it’s further west and gets more of the western alps hits?
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 Poster: A snowHead
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@matrix yes spent Monday in hotel and skipped the rain. Yesterday over to Zell/Gerlos which was good fun, and today a half day on Penken until snow turned to slush. 8° at 2090m at 1pm. Forecast is even warmer for the weekend. Harikiri was open in the morning until someone was airlifted off around 1pm.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
@flicky, yes it looked like the injured person had slid a long way off the piste so must have been carrying some speed. Snowboarder.

At least the pistes are pretty much empty. I found the runs up top to be great until lunch time.

I think we may try the glacier tomorrow.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Wishing I was back there, if it wasn't for my caring duties I think I'd be back out. Had a mate call me last night asking if I'd go back out to Fiss at the weekend.
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Glacier today and snow was in good shape above 2700m. Lower down it was very slow, sticky and pretty unpleasant. But today was a fantastic way to end our week, in glorious sunshine.
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Big dump overnight in Mayrhofen. Seeing all the pictures from Snowboming is a struggle this morning whilst I'm sat at my desk...
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Snowline is around 1000m. Can see it up above our house. No skiing for me until the weekend, but should be nice then snowHead

Very different crowd in Mayrhofen this week..... The OH is working for snowbombing this week helping set up venues, selling merchandise etc.
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Extreme transformation on the web cams, it was 19.2 degC at the fun park a couple of days ago, now back to winter wonderland.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@JimboS, Yesterday was 25 degress in the valley, when I drove to the shop on my lunchbreak it was 5! Tomorrow back to 18 and then mid 20s again for the weekend!
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We are looking at doing a week in Hochfügen in January with young kids.

Where is the best place to stay for beginner runs / ski school etc?

I am being told Fugen but am a little put off by the bus journey required to get onto the mountain. Kalthenbach looks better but pricier. Mayrhofen another option.
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@darrinm81, It depends...
If you stay in Fügen the kids could have lessons at Spieljoch. This is the ski area accessible by gondola directly from Fügen. It's a good area for small children - usually quiet and plenty of terrain for beginner kids. The beginner area is at the top of the gondola. Spieljoch and Hochfügen are not linked. It's not possible to ski from one to the other.
Fügen has a reasonable choice of accommodation, from guest houses, to apartments, to hotels, including Mia Alpina which is Kinder Hotel. Mia Alpina will take your kids to the ski school and bring them back at the end of the day if you want to ski somewhere else.
If you stay in Hochfügen the kids could have lessons there. The beginner area is next to the car park. Most of the accommodation in Hochfügen is a couple of minutes walk to the snow. There are a handful of hotels and apartments in Hochfügen which are generally more expensive than Fügen because of their location.
Staying in Fügen and having lessons in Hochfügen would involve a bus ride. There is a ski depot right next to the bus stop in Hochfügen, so you could leave equipment there and take the bus in street shoes which might take some of the pain out of the journey.
If this sounds like an option, check where your accommodation is in Fügen in relation to the bus stops. The buses have plenty of stops around Fügen - choose well and you'll have door to door.

If you don't want lessons while the kids are in ski school, Hochfügen is definitely a more interesting area for you to ski. Saying that, it's also possible to book your kids into lessons at Spieljoch with lunch and the gondola transfer. You drop your kids at the base station of the Spieljochbahn shortly before 9, they go up the gondola with the ski school, you take the bus to Hochfügen and then get back to pick them up around 3.

The ski area at Kaltenbach is also at the top of the gondola. I don't know where you're looking to say that it's pricier. There's a whole range of accommodation in and around Kaltenbach at all price points. Generally cheaper is in Stumm which is 1km to the lift - walkable if you leave your equipment at the ski depot by the gondola. There are also regular shuttle buses.

I hope that helps.
If you need more info. give me a shout.
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@darrinm81, if you're looking for a nice snowy environment, maybe with some tobogganing involved in the evenings etc I'd go for Hochfügen if I were you. It's more like a ski resort, where as Fügen is more a village with skiing above it, if that makes sense?
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And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
Great info from @SaraJ, all I'd add is that having stayed in Kaltenbach previously it was a bit carparky and devoid of atmosphere. Utilitarian perhaps but not quaint. I remember seeing a handful of small hotels beside lifts in, I think, Hochfugen and thinking I'd stay there if I ever came back.
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8611 wrote:
Great info from @SaraJ, all I'd add is that having stayed in Kaltenbach previously it was a bit carparky.


Probably because of that great big multi story carpark near the base of the lift! But agreed its not the most attractive or buzzy place. We stayed in an apartment in Stumm and took the ski bus which could get quite busy (didn’t get a locker but probably should have as then you are not reliant on the buses which can be a bit few and far between outside peak times).
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You know it makes sense.
20240413-111319

Very nice up on the glacier today, albeit it quite warm. Snow at the top was soft, but not slushy, better skiing was round on the Kaserer t bar which are less exposed to the direct sun, and they're better pistes as well. Not very busy either, so no queues on any lifts, and lots of room to practise.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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@swskier, skiing to the valley, or to the Gondola down?
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Poster: A snowHead
@8611, gondola down, I didn't bother skiing below tuxer fernerhaus as its rather warm!
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Looks like that's about to change - remarkable forecast for this week with snow right down to the valley
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Well it was a lovely holiday until it wasn’t. My wife managed to break her leg and got choppered off a couple of days before the end of our hol. Emergency services were amazing and they operated quickly. Bit of faff getting home with lack of flights and BA needing 48 hours to review medical docs (used EasyJet in the end).

We have been skiing 20 plus days a season for several years so I suppose an injury is inevitable but I wouldn’t recommend breaking your tib and fib. Very nasty. Will be a slow recovery.
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Bad luck @Matrix, sorry to hear, wish her a speedy recovery
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@8611, cheers
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Sorry to hear that Matrix, bad luck indeed. Hope your wife's recovery is straightforward and swift and doesn't knock her confidence too much.

I can tell that my wife Kim will be unsure about returning to the slopes when the time comes. We are back out in the Hof/Hintertux in 9 weeks, she definitely won't be able to ski then and is worried about next year. It was her first injury in 40 years of skiing.
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@Matrix, sorry to hear that, hopefully she has a speedy recovery!

A very warm day again today, things got soft up on the glacier for the afternoon, right to the very highest slopes. It was about 26 degrees down in the valley.

Lovely day of skiing though, and the final day of the season for Mrs Swskier. Also her first time skiing at Hintertux which she really enjoyed.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@JimboS, @swskier, thanks both.
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@Matrix, sorry to hear about you wife, hopefully a quick recovery. Hoping to get to Hintertux in a couple of weeks IF the snow firms up with the forecast cold front. I have a neighbour who works in middle east who is desperate for one last ski this season but he has a tendency to overdo it and injure himself. His girlfriend is a relatively new very nervous skier who won't go anywhere new if I'm not there so the last thing we need is soft, bumpy, slushy snow
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Anyone watching the bike race? It looks very cold & miserable certainly not a bike day for me!
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