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TR - Madonna di Campiglio - Pejo - 2/13-18/2023

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hello,

Trip reports have a been a great reference for me on this site - so here's my first attempt at reciprocating Smile

For reference, my previous notable ski trips were - Ski Welt - 1992, Park City UT - 2002, Kitzbuhel - 2005, and Alta Badia - San Cassiano - 2019.

This was my second trip with my two kids (now aged 15 and 17). Alta Badia was a perfect introduction to a large ski area and a week's worth of skiing. We live in SW Pennsylvania so our local skiing options are pretty limited (and very overpriced - as is most of the skiing in the US). We did a bit more tobogganing on that trip since we were based in San Cassiano with the excellent run Tru Liosa Foram at our doorstep. We also spent a full day sledding at Alps di Siusi to give the kids a break from skiing. We all really love tobogganing though and there is nothing remotely similar in the US to the lift served runs in Europe. Our next trip will be to Wengen in 2024 and we'll probably end up spending half our time on sleds there.

We originally planned to go to Saalbach in Feb 2022 but my son had an appendectomy about a week before I was going to book our stay. There were a lot of great last minute deals (ie 3-4 weeks out) on lodging in 2022 and I thought we'd have the same luck for Saalbach in 2023. This Jan. everything in our price range in Saalbach / Hinterglemm was booked out. MDC was on my list too so luckily we got a good deal on Pra de la Casa, a B&B located in the Adamello Brenta National Park (about halfway between Pinzolo and MDC). The B&B had excellent complimentary breakfast and optional dinner. We ended up eating all our dinners there as the food was excellent and it was very convenient.

We flew into Milan on 2-11 and drove to Verona for a night. Rented car from Sixt at the airport as they seem to be the only rental w/ ski racks. Unfortunately they were out of racks even though we reserved in advance. They upgraded our car to a BMW station wagon long enough to store the skis. Verona really exceeded my expectations, beautiful city with a lot of energy. I was surprised how many tourists there were - I think it was a lot of local tourists visiting for the weekend... We spent a full day and the next morning in Verona before heading to Trento for lunch and an afternoon on the way to our B&B. I rented our skis in advance in Pinzolo since it was a little cheaper than MDC and I figured it'd be easier to park too. We picked up skis on the way - it was a real zoo but still painless. Very helpful staff in spite of the mayhem - our pickup time was around 4pm or so - right after the lifts closed.



Verona



Trento


Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Sat 11-03-23 19:57; edited 1 time in total
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Pinzolo - Day 1

We had freeze / thaw conditions all week. So early AM until around 1pm or so had the best conditions. After lunch the snow started to get slow and slushy at lower elevations w/ some moguls appearing.

We enjoyed all the reds over here. Brenta -112 was best early on. Grual Rossa - 104 was good all day and had the most scenic views.
The Dolomitica Tour route all the way down from Doss del Sabion to the base of Tulot was especially fun. There were easier sections followed by steep drops so you never knew what was around the corner. Tulot was my kids first black slope in Europe and they handled it fine.

Competition -102 was another nice black slope that avoided all the traffic and moguls on the blues at the end of the day.





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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Nice pictures, @mr_scratchy_esq, glad you saw some of Verona and Trentino too.
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MDC - Day 2

We were able to get a ride to the nearby Plaza station and took the gondola to MDC for the first runs of the day.


FIS-3-Tre - 88 was one of my favorite slopes of the entire trip. Fast rollers and just perfect grippy snow in the morning.

Our next run down blue 5 Laghi - 85 was nice too.


Amazzonia - 57 was another highlight of the day as we skied it early on. Later in the afternoon it was crowded and mogully.
We took 55 by accident somehow and had to walk across town to get to the Spinale Express.

We made our way back in time for the last gondola back to Plaza at 3:45.


Really nicely groomed cross country trails along this valley.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Beautiful photos! Having stayed in Folgarida and skied a bit of Madonna, I'd like to go back and ski more, it looks and sounds wonderful.


Last edited by Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do. on Sat 11-03-23 21:19; edited 1 time in total
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Brenta Forest Apres Ski Hike - Day 2

I didn't even bother to look into hiking opportunites on this trip because I didn't think I'd have enough daylight. However, there were several great trails just steps away from our B&B that I was able to explore over two days.





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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
MDC - Passo Grosse - Day 3

Another blue sky day with especially dramatic scenery on this of the valley. Unfortunately Cima Groste was closed - it's a very gentle ungroomed free ride area under the lifts that would perfect place to learn off-piste techniques. We skied into this area a little but the snow was rock hard so we stayed on piste...
Vagilana - 65 was a fun slope on this side of the valley and Rifugio Graffer was one of my favorite lunch breaks.
We enjoyed exploring this area but overall preferred the reds on the opposite side of the valley (52 and 53 were esp good).











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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Brenta Bassa Hike - Apres Ski - Day 3

Luckily our B&B had microspikes to lend for this hike. Yesterday I hiked on south facing slopes that didn't have too much ice. On this day I was in the shade and trails were pretty much hard packed ice. I had no idea where I was going just told by my hostess to check out the waterfall at the top of the trail. My jaw literally dropped when I came to the Malaga Brenta Bassa which I had seen in photos before... If I had known in advance I would have headed straight there to get more light instead of climbing around in the canyons - but on the other hand it wouldn't have been a surprise.








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You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
did you take any photos?
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 Ski the Net with snowHeads
Ski the Net with snowHeads
ha - just a few... I thought that's what this site wanted...
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snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
MDC - Marilleva - tobogganing - Day 4

Crossed over into Marilleva in the morning. Very different terrain over here - more narrow and tree lined slopes. It was a bit similar to our east coast skiing but way better of course. Only hangup was a 25 min queue for the Vigo lift. It wouldn't have taken nearly as long if they'd been sending full chairs up.

The tobogganing was lots of fun and nice break from the skiing. Chalet Fiat was crazy crowded but the self-service line moved along and the food was excellent.












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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
You seem to have found a lot more sunshine than some, this week.
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
Having just spent ten days between Trento, Pinzolo and MdC I'm feeling that my mediocre phone snapshots have somehow magically come to life. Very Happy
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
MDC - Sunset Ski - Day 4

My daughter saw this online and wanted to do it. It was fun - there was live music, appertivo and drink included. No dramatic sunset as the skies were clear but I got lots of nice portraits in the soft glow. The descent was a bit harder and took longer than I expected - a slow snowplow all the way down from top of Pradalago. Some people didn't have torches and others didn't relight them after they went out so it was pretty dark. Lots of wax everywhere by the end on the skis and clothes... still fun though.






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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Pejo - MDC night - Day 5

Pejo was included in our lift pass just over an hour drive away. It was very scenic with a completely different topography than the Brenta Dolomites. The snow here was best around the middle elevations. The top was a little icy and hard and the base level was very slow and slushy even in the morning. It is a pretty small ski area and it only took us maybe 4 or 5 hours to ski everything twice. We had an excellent lunch and enjoyed the relatively open slopes. The old town was also very cool and worth a walk around.

We stopped to explore MDC a little more on the way back to our B & B. I have to admit I preferred the higher energy and spectacle of the Cortina passeggiata over MDC as fas as the people watching was concerned. There were less dogs and furs and more packs of teenage boys...


Pra de la Casa

















ski holidays
 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
@mr_scratchy_esq, wonderful trip report and your photos are simply tops! Thank you so much for sharing.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Forgarida - Marilleva - Pinzolo evening - Day 6

Last day of skiing on the trip and it was a good one.

Brenzi - 8, Doss della Pesa - 20, Mastellissima -32 and Nera Folgarida - 1 were my faves of the day.

Even though the elevation was a little lower here the snow held up well as it was mostly shaded.
My kids did great on the blacks we skied so it was satisfying to see such an improvement in their skills and confidence over the week.

Dropped off our skis in Pinzolo and wandered around the village. I liked it more than MDC - it had more shops and character - less hotels.






Sophia Loren probably rode on this one Smile







Last night at Pra de la Casa
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@mr_scratchy_esq, wonderful report, weather and photos, thanks for taking the time to post. I've been to Pejo but MdC is on the list for the future. Out of interest, which have been your favourite ski areas out of all the ones you've visited in the Alps?
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Excellent

Many thanks

Had two nights and one ski day at Pejo a few years back, as well as a weekend in Verona

Great part of the world
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
denfinella wrote:
@mr_scratchy_esq, Out of interest, which have been your favourite ski areas out of all the ones you've visited in the Alps?


Thanks! Can't really pick a favorite but here's a quick take on the four areas I have visited.

Ski Welt - 1992 - My first time skiing in Europe and seeing the Austrian alps. I went solo on a tour package while I was studying abroad in Sheffield for my junior year. I stayed in a dorm in Hopfgarten above a bar. I made lots of friends and was basically blown away by the whole experience - completely different from the small mountain east coast US skiing experience. I loved how the skiing seemed to have organically grown around the villages and farms.

Kitzbuhel - 2005 - I went with my wife on our second big ski trip (we went to Park City Utah in 2002). The old town of Kitzbuhel was very romantic. I skied off piste (ski routes) and tobogganed for the first time. It was also exciting to ski part of the Hahnenkamm course. Great conditions.

Alta Badia - 2019 - First ski trip with my kids, their first trip to Europe and my first time seeing the Dolomites - really amazing experience. The food here was the best of any of my ski trips. We stayed at Plang Farmhouse in San Cassiano and it was a perfect experience - best place I've ever stayed (attention to detail and the decor/architecture). It was exciting to see Cortina and stumble on the ruins of the Olympic bobsled course. Other highlights - Tru Liosa Foram tobogganing, Hidden Valley, Cinque Torre, sledding at Alps di Siusi, night sledding and dinner at Ciastel in San Vigliano. The actual skiing was a little bit secondary on this trip as my kids were 11 and 13 and had only been skiing for a year or so. They did fine on the blues and reds but had to be persuaded to ski on the red slopes... fabulous trip. We also stopped in Innsbruck and stayed a couple days in Munich.

MDC - 2023 - My kids were much more accomplished skiers and were able to keep up with me and ski pretty much anything. I think they were a little nervous at the start of their first black (Tulot) - but had no hesitations after that run. We definitely pushed harder on this trip not only on the amount of skiing but also on our sightseeing in Verona, Bergamo and Milan. The solo hikes I took in the Brenta forest were very memorable as was our overall experience at Pra de la Casa. The owners Dori and Matteo were super friendly and helpful. Even if the skiing at Pejo wasn't especially memorable the scenery was - unlike any other mountains I've seen. I'd say that I overall preferred the red slopes at MDC to the blues we skied at Alta Badia - but we only skied a handful of reds back in 2019 and I didn't get to ski the black Gran Risa.

Next trip will hopefully be to Wengen in 2024.
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What a fabulous TR! snowHead

Thanks for sharing and taking the time, too!

I loved the Brenta Dolomites skiing, having been there twice. Would love to do it again some day.
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