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Zermatt and Cervinia 2022-2023

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Just came back from an excellent sunny week in Zermatt where there was barely a cloud in the sky.

Pistes were in great shape all over Zermatt & Cervinia and all seemed to be open apart from the usual bit for experts off to the side of Gornergrat. Off piste wasn't worth considering though. Despite it being half-term in many places, the queues really were fine, just the chair at Gornergrat and the chair at Trockner Steg had about a 5 minute queue at their worst, if that, and nothing more than a minute anywhere else. The town itself was very busy and I know a friend couldn't get his older kid into Zermatters.

The link with Cervinia was open every day as there were minimal or no winds so we went over three times in the week. They have created a new alternative link back to Zermatt from the same access point where the landslide was although it was a bit stony underneath so the other two times we went back via the cable car (zero queues for this). If snow cover disappears from this new link maybe they will close it again.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
There last week and echo the above - more snow would be nice of course, but pistes in good condition, weather was great (albeit very warm! - felt like summer in the town).

Slopes and lifts did feel quiet, cost of living effects? Noticeable that seemed at least as many, if not more, Americans about than Brits on the Zermatt side.

That new link back to Zermatt was slightly sketchy, bit of a rocky sharp turn, saw a few come a cropper there
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Naumann wrote:
There last week and echo the above - more snow would be nice of course, but pistes in good condition, weather was great (albeit very warm! - felt like summer in the town).

Slopes and lifts did feel quiet, cost of living effects? Noticeable that seemed at least as many, if not more, Americans about than Brits on the Zermatt side.

That new link back to Zermatt was slightly sketchy, bit of a rocky sharp turn, saw a few come a cropper there


I think you’ll find many of the Americans are using their Ikon passes. Met a number of Americans and Canadians when I was there late January and they pretty much all had the pass. I was using one too but being from Australia I didn’t have the physical card so the ticket office weren’t sure how to deal with me at first (all sorted in the end).
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It's gone a bit quite here...how's it all looking? Heading out 11th...we're just intermediate piste skiers so I trust they'll be in reasonable nick?

Just got a couple of other questions as it'd be our first time:

How busy is the Gornergrat in the mornings? Will it be easy to get a seat or should I reserve this? We have a party of 5...including some non-skiers
What's the difficulty of the valley runs? We have a beginner in the group...
What happens after runs 27 and 40? Is the only option to wait for the train or walk uphill? Might be ones to avoid if so...
What's the WiFi like on the lifts? Considering getting by without a sim card...

Thanks so much! Very Happy
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
You can’t reserve a seat on the Gornergrat train as far as I know. But I never had a problem getting on a train last Easter. Alternatively you can take the gondola via Furi to Riffleberg

The valley runs aren’t the best in the resort! They can get quite bumpy and busy late afternoon. Lots download from Furi or Sunnegga. We did despite being strong intermediates and the pistes still being in good nick - it was just easier!

As to Wi-Fi do you mean whilst actually on the lifts? Can’t say I’ve ever tried. You’ll be too busy looking at the view
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Runs 27 and 40 (which wasn’t open when I was there) both end at Rifflealp station. From there you can get the train back to Zermatt or up to Riffleberg/Gornergrat. Or is a flat pole along the track to the Rifflealp resort where you can take the red down to Furi. But I’m not sure it would be suitable for a beginner
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Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
TommyJ wrote:
You can’t reserve a seat on the Gornergrat train as far as I know. But I never had a problem getting on a train last Easter. Alternatively you can take the gondola via Furi to Riffleberg

We never had a problem getting on the train.

TommyJ wrote:
The valley runs aren’t the best in the resort! They can get quite bumpy and busy late afternoon. Lots download from Furi or Sunnegga. We did despite being strong intermediates and the pistes still being in good nick - it was just easier!

Definitely good advice!

TommyJ wrote:
As to Wi-Fi do you mean whilst actually on the lifts? Can’t say I’ve ever tried. You’ll be too busy looking at the view

The wifi is good, but I think only works in lift stations, maybe also at intermediate stops? Some of us tended to keep mobile data switched off in CH, then try to remember to switch it on in Italy (EU roaming)
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@viciousvulture, all good advice above…. I would also add that run 27 involves a lengthy almost flat section for quite a long way to the final point at Riffelalp station - you either need to get up a good head of steam on the early steeper part or be prepared for quite a lot of poling….. each to their own but I wouldn’t be taking a beginner that way to be honest - the slopes above Riffelberg, over at Sunnegga/Blauherd and once used to the altitude, above Trockener Steg are more beginner friendly.
As above, downloading with beginners is the way to go. Do pay heed to the warning on the descent from Sunnegga about the left hand piste below Patrullarve being for strong skiers - they reconfigured that piste a few years ago and though it starts off relatively benignly includes a short, but very steep section which is often icy and littered with people who have found it (understandably!) very challenging!
Do enjoy your trip….. plenty of other great skiing and views to enjoy!
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@viciousvulture, I agree with the above feedback but would add the following
You should try and take the Gornergrat train at least once for the experience and try and travel in the front section. However, it is a slow way of getting up the mountain and gondola from KM base station to Furi followed by change of gondola up to Riffleberg may be quicker, depending on where your accomodation is in relation to the station vs KM base station.
Is the beginner in ski school? If not and they are skiing with you then don't go all the way up the train but get off at Rotenboden as the top bit isn't that beginner friendly. Better still, go up Sunnegga where there are some better beginner slopes - or better still put them in ski school!
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The snow always seems to be a week away. This has been an awful snow season. The high quality they have managed to maintain on the pistes is amazing given the lack of snow.

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Agreed, now back 2 weeks, but the pistes were all in great shape. Could even ski right to the bus stop at the Matterhorn gondola end!
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
I'm going to be visiting Zermatt during the last week of April, Monday-Wednesday attempting the ISIA speedtest (likely failing Laughing ) staying at the Hotel Helvetia (cheapest hotel going that isn't a dorm room).

Seems to be a pretty central location? I'm guessing the racing is up on the glacier, so it looks as though it's roughly a 10 minute or so walk to the lift.

Any particular horror stories with the hotel? Seems as though there's an Italian restaurant in the hotel now. It's a cheap and cheerful hotel, so not expecting luxury!
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
This is the cross country skiing course outside our apartment in Täsch. No cross country skiing this year! It would usually be May before it looked like this.

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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
JohnMo wrote:
The snow always seems to be a week away. This has been an awful snow season. The high quality they have managed to maintain on the pistes is amazing given the lack of snow.



Hmmm, I must say with non-skiers in the group I was hoping for a sunny week with lunches on the terraces...we shall see how it all pans out...
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
@swskier, spent one night in the Helvetia a couple of weeks ago. It's just opposite the Hexen bar, which was very noisy, so I'd bring earplugs. The Italian was great (had vitello)
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Those who know this area well... potentially looking at going to Cervinia 8 April week. I know it's high but from the map it looks like many slopes face south or thereabouts, and it's very late in season. So, to my actual question, does this knacker the snow in as you would expect? I can't afford the international pass so it would be Italian side only.

Slush is not my fave but inevitable at this time of year - however would like to minimise it because I'm going with a not-very-confident child and I think a combination of him struggling with slush and me struggling with altitude effects, might make for a less than ideal week.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
I think you need a new compass. Almost zero slopes in either Cervinia or Zermatt face south. Almost all of Cervinia is facing the west whilst Zermatt slopes are mostly north facing with some east and some west. There’s literally zero south facing slopes as I recall aside from a couple of short sections that go “the other way” in Zermatt.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@robertsnerys,
Hard to say for certain but I have been last week of April into May couple of times and the snow on all open runs has been absolutely fine, some flatter sections can get a bit sticky but that can happen in Feb also!
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I would say that most of the Cervinia slopes face south west, particularly those above and below Plan Maison (the main part of the skiing area.

By 8 April the slopes below Plan Maison might well be slushy - particularly in the afternoon. However generally the slopes above Plan Maison hold out fairly well into April. If it is not good the pistes off Gran Sometta (lift z) are more sheltered (north west facing) and will almost certainly be in good condition.
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@alasdair.graham and @JohnMo thanks - that's really useful. Yes, south west is probably a bit more accurate. But good to know there are alternatives on northern exposures. I often find orientation is equally important to height - more so in some cases, particularly if the sun has been blazing down strongly for weeks.

We would be staying in Valtournenche, and those slopes definitely look southern-ish to me, plus lower, so we would likely be driving up/ avoiding those in the afternoon if they are open, which isn't by any means guaranteed.

Zermatt orientation neither here nor there unfortunately, as we wouldn't be going over there - costs too much and in the past I seem to remember paying for an international pass and the links being pretty much closed for the whole long weekend.
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@robertsnerys, I think Valtournenche is also more south west. Salette is about the same height as Plan Maison. The run down from Salette (wonderful as it is) is unlikely to be great by that time. Above Salette the proper skiing is served by lift f. That is fairly high so could be good. The skiing along lift e is just flat.
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JohnMo wrote:
I would say that most of the Cervinia slopes face south west, particularly those above and below Plan Maison (the main part of the skiing area.

By 8 April the slopes below Plan Maison might well be slushy - particularly in the afternoon. However generally the slopes above Plan Maison hold out fairly well into April. If it is not good the pistes off Gran Sometta (lift z) are more sheltered (north west facing) and will almost certainly be in good condition.


This is all true, however does neglect to mention that lift z is an awfully slow two person chair. The only really ancient lift left in the entire area iirc.

Also, the Ventina piste is pretty well shaded from the the sun, at lower levels.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
That is true. Plus the upper Ventina (aka piste 7) is on the glacier. So you can have a good ride down its whole length until really quite late in the season.

Also true re lift z but I am happy to have a leisurely ride up it in the April sun - doing it in January can be a killer.
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Guys, can I get some advice please - we're going 11th - shall I get the ski passes now or wait until I get there? Some lively weather on the way so was just concerned there might be some lift closures?
A 6 1/2 day pass is currently 457CHF for 12th but on the day could rise to around 480CHF.
Thanks
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Deed done, B&B booked in Paquier, we have a car so should be fine. Now off to order some Diamox;) Last time I was in Cervinia many moons ago I just remember getting out of the top lift and nearly passing out, and then wanting to throw up about 30 minutes later. Lucky son isn't at all bothered by altitude, got his dad's genes.

Sorry @viciousvulture I can't answer your question, but I do remember from my previous trip that the international links are very closure-prone. Is that the price for one person (faints)? Blimey. I'm definitely not going to the Swiss side, nice as it is.
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robertsnerys wrote:
Sorry @viciousvulture I can't answer your question, but I do remember from my previous trip that the international links are very closure-prone. Is that the price for one person (faints)? Blimey. I'm definitely not going to the Swiss side, nice as it is.


Yes, swiss side not inc. Italy

I was concerned with the avalanche risk with the upcoming weather. I remember reading on some other forum that they had all the lifts closed for a week because of it, that's probably quite extreme though... Shocked
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
I guess you could play it by ear, and then if it looks dicey you could travel to some lower-lying resorts nearby? Must be quite unusual for the whole resort to close owing to avalanche danger in April, though?
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
@viciousvulture, I doubt snowy conditions will stop much, but like anywhere if it's very windy a lot can be closed - I have been there when the whole of the Klein Matterhorn area has been closed for a couple of days and most of the lifts other than the Sunnegga Funicular and Gornergrat train were shut too
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
That's good to hear - from what I can tell it doesn't appear to be very windy, perhaps a touch more around the weekend.

Expensive trip, so just making sure all bases are covered... Smile
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
The forecasts for the towns are also regularly very different from what the weather is like at 4000m at Klein Matterhorn. It can be calm as anything in Cervinia and at Plan Maison and at Trockener Steg, but howling a 70kmph gale up the top forcing link closure.
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
On the train to Zermatt, it all looks shut, boo. Do we think it’ll open up for tomorrow?
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
viciousvulture wrote:
On the train to Zermatt, it all looks shut, boo. Do we think it’ll open up for tomorrow?


Yes and it will be amazing!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
viciousvulture wrote:
On the train to Zermatt, it all looks shut, boo. Do we think it’ll open up for tomorrow?


Täsch train station is full of people hoping it will be open this afternoon. Fortunately we live in Täsch so not an issue for us. We have been out snowshoeing this morning. Even in snowshoes it was hard going. Absolutely beautiful. In the worst snow year in my experience this has been one of the biggest and best dumps (and still going).
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JohnMo wrote:
viciousvulture wrote:
On the train to Zermatt, it all looks shut, boo. Do we think it’ll open up for tomorrow?


Täsch train station is full of people hoping it will be open this afternoon. Fortunately we live in Täsch so not an issue for us. We have been out snowshoeing this morning. Even in snowshoes it was hard going. Absolutely beautiful. In the worst snow year in my experience this has been one of the biggest and best dumps (and still going).


Oh that’s really encouraging, so I should go ahead and grab the lift passes today as opposed to waiting tomorrow?
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
viciousvulture wrote:
JohnMo wrote:
viciousvulture wrote:
On the train to Zermatt, it all looks shut, boo. Do we think it’ll open up for tomorrow?


Täsch train station is full of people hoping it will be open this afternoon. Fortunately we live in Täsch so not an issue for us. We have been out snowshoeing this morning. Even in snowshoes it was hard going. Absolutely beautiful. In the worst snow year in my experience this has been one of the biggest and best dumps (and still going).


Oh that’s really encouraging, so I should go ahead and grab the lift passes today as opposed to waiting tomorrow?


I would wait until tomorrow - or at least until they announce the train is running again. The western side of the valley next to the train line is very steep. If snow accumulates it usually releases very quickly. They were bombing this morning (that might have just been Zermatt and ski area though) but they are not doing so now. There are no helicopters flying - which there usually would be because of course a lot of people want to get out of Zermatt as well as a lot wanting to get in.
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Posted too soon. You are good to go.

Quote:
Update disruption Zermatt – Täsch: The route between Zermatt and Täsch can be used again as normal from 3:30 p.m. First trains passing through Zermatt from: Shuttle 86 3:35 p.m. and RE 254 3:37 p.m., Täsch from Shuttle 85 3:35 p.m. and RE 343 3:37 p.m.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
JohnMo wrote:
Posted too soon. You are good to go.

Quote:
Update disruption Zermatt – Täsch: The route between Zermatt and Täsch can be used again as normal from 3:30 p.m. First trains passing through Zermatt from: Shuttle 86 3:35 p.m. and RE 254 3:37 p.m., Täsch from Shuttle 85 3:35 p.m. and RE 343 3:37 p.m.


Oh, I actually meant lift passes, was worried that most of the lifts are shut now.
But good to know the the train line is up, didn’t realise that had gone down.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@JohnMo, Well that’s a relief. Sitting at the train station in Chamonix waiting to leave for Zermatt. The only skiing here the last two days was on beginner lifts or in the rain - I chose neither! Looks like there could be good conditions this coming week.
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viciousvulture wrote:
JohnMo wrote:
Posted too soon. You are good to go.

Quote:
Update disruption Zermatt – Täsch: The route between Zermatt and Täsch can be used again as normal from 3:30 p.m. First trains passing through Zermatt from: Shuttle 86 3:35 p.m. and RE 254 3:37 p.m., Täsch from Shuttle 85 3:35 p.m. and RE 343 3:37 p.m.


Oh, I actually meant lift passes, was worried that most of the lifts are shut now.
But good to know the the train line is up, didn’t realise that had gone down.



Ah. Lifts are good. It has been windy up on the border so Furggsattel and Klein Matterhorn lifts have been closed (plus the criossing into Italy). But everything else has been open (obviously a bit late this morning). I was piste skiing yesterday and it was lovely in the snow that had come down - should be out of this world now. I am off round the corner to the 4 valleys and Verbier for a week. Looking good there as well.
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@JohnMo, thanks! So I’ve been looking at the piste map which is showing pretty much everything as closed today. Should I not be following that? Sorry, first time in Zermatt
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