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Les Arcs 2022 / 2023

 Poster: A snowHead
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I am now 3 more sleeps from family trip to Les Arcs…

Kids are getting older and a stop in the Folie Douce in 1800 feels like a thing we ought to do. ‘Cept we are staying in Arcs 1950.

(Last year we had a perfectly fun Apres Ski session in Luigi’s, but it feels like we ought to give Folie a bash)

What is the recommendation for leaving Folie and getting back to Arcs 1950?

Ski to Transarc and make last lift up?

Stay late, ski down to 1800 and get a bus back to 1950?

It all feels like an ‘adventure’ opportunity - so any alternatives welcome!
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Quote:

Stay late, ski down to 1800 and get a bus back to 1950?
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@Richie_S, How old are the children? We took ours to Folie this week and they thought it was brilliant fun. Fortunately we're in 1800, so it was a short ski through the tunnel onto the green to get home. Following some intoxicated ladies skiing in only their bras. Interesting to note that the punchbags on that green are all tied back at that time (around 6pm). Presumably to stop drunk skiers garroting themselves after dark.

Very, very slushy by around 5pm in 1800 at the moment. In fact we walked to La Piscine yesterday at 5pm and literally walked through puddles by Vagere, so your ski down may be a bit tricky.
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Update on our trip.

I went for a pootle around Peisy yesterday. Found the Derby chair and took Renard back down. I'd wanted ro find Forêt Pitchouns, but realised when I looked at the map afterwards that I'd not taken the correct turn onto Forêt 2. Had to get back to collect thd sprogs so went back to 1800 when I reached the bottom of Derby again. Lovely run though!

We opted to do Plan de eux to 1950 and then back to 1800 again yesterday. I was almost taken out by an out of control small child at the junction of Charmettoger and Arpette (just above Vagere). I had to take evasive action and fortunately avoided both collision and falling over. Husband tells me that just after that, his teacher gave him a rollicking.

Boy11 was buzzing yesterday. He went up to Aguille Rouge and did some blacks!! In fact, when I got to the top of Derby, I looked at the Life360 app to see where he was, just out of interest. And it showed him on the black just below AR! I couldn't believe my eyes!
We have had to have a conversation with him though as he truly believes that he should be permitted to go off round the mountain on his own because we're too boring for him. His attitude has been pretty crappy with us. We've explained that we're happy for him to do reds that pop us all out in the same spot occasionally, but ultimately, he's 11 years old and he is going to ski with his family in the afternoon. Morning lessons are the opportunity to stretch and challenge himself, under the guidance of an experienced instructor.

We read them the riot act last night after they both complained about needing to pole at the top of Plan de eux and then bickered all the way down. Told them to get a grip, look around and appreciate what they were doing, where they were doing it and the opportunity to even have that experience!

It is a remarkably different childhood to the ones we had, but they have no concept of how fortunate they are to have these experiences. Very frustrating!
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@Owlette,
I'm with you on this.
First a disclaimer - I do understand all children are different.

MiniRoll, now 21, has been skiing Les Arcs for 18 years, 3 weeks a year. At 11 she was as competent a skier as you might expect, and quite capable of (and indeed did) the blacks off AR and Varet with me.

But still was not mature enough at that age to understand dangers of lone skiing, avalanche risk, or over-confidence.
She continued in ski school (see below) for another 2 years, and then has had occasional private lessons since then. IIRC it was at about 15 that we'd let he go alone with others of same age and ability on her own, and even then it was girls rather than boys, who possibly, have a greater sense of their own abilities.

There are groups available certainly from Evo2, Arc Adventures and probably ESF these days that push youngsters to their limits and beyond your "standard" ski school curriculum, but within a structured approach, and obviously with experienced supervision. You might want to look at this as a way to engage his enthusiasm without putting the fear of god into you the parents.

And, however calmly you explain what a lucky son of a gun he is, it's unlikely to have an effect... knowing no different, gives everyone a different baseline of expectation.

Good luck!
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Hi all, super pumped as will be in 1950 on Saturday for a week. CanNotWait!

How's the snow looking right now and in to next week, holding up ok, any more dusting due? Spring rules I assume, ski in the mornings when snow is good then head to pub?

We've been this same week for years now and it's always been fine but feel we've been riding our luck.

Bring on the weekend and see you on the hill!
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@Owlette, 10, 14 and 17….

So I expect 10 year old will find it fun, 14 year old excruciatingly embarrassing and the 17 year (who is not yet broken ground on late night socialising and drinking) will roll his eyes and profess its “boring”
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
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@Arctic Roll,
Thanks. I couldn't agree with you more wholeheartedly about the lack of maturity.
He's doing Yeti 3 with Evo2, so is being pushed there. He'd not done blacks before this trip. Trouble is, then he wants to repeat it in the afternoon... alone. And when we (quite reasonably for all the reasons listed above) refuse, he gets snotty with us and drains the fun out of it all.

He's had a better day today by all accounts. He was in a better mood after ski school and even poled past Vagere and down to the escalator without complaint. He and 9 opted to have a rest afternoon as did Husband so I was free to roam the mountain without either time or other people constraints.

Twas a glorious afternoon.

May I take a moment to toot my own horn? I went up to Grand Col and did that red. It was a bit tense coming down that narrow, steep gully, but I got down the whole thing upright and in one piece! I did a few different routes all around the 1950/2000 bowl, including popping in and out of each (used the rope tow up to 2000 for the first time), down to the bottom of Pre St Esprit lift, back up there, down again to 1950 where I got Marmottes and Arcabulle back up, and came down the red Grand Renard until I picked up Charmettoger, then a chilled glide back to 1800 via there, Plan Bois and Maitaz.

Feeling very pleased with myself.

https://strava.app.link/WX5AD7hJKyb


Last edited by After all it is free Go on u know u want to! on Wed 5-04-23 16:40; edited 1 time in total
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@Owlette,
Quote:

so I was free to roam the mountain without either time or other people constraints

Lol, like mother like son, then? wink
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@Richie_S, Ha! My 11 (nearly 12) year old found it very embarrassing when I was dancing. Especially to songs that were big during my early 20s. I had a life before you kid!

@peaklocation, Conditions are pretty good. It was a bit icy around 1950 today. Didn't really soften up all day. But higher up, in the sun, they were perfect!
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Hurtle wrote:
@Owlette,
Quote:

so I was free to roam the mountain without either time or other people constraints

Lol, like mother like son, then? wink


Ha! Indeed. Though I'm 40 and allowed to be out unsupervised. I'm not always convinced that's sensible, but there we are.
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@Owlette, Laughing
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Quote:

Feeling very pleased with myself.

And so you should. That red down from the Grand Col is not easy. IMHO I think the Black down from the Aigulle Rouge is easier. There are 3 tricky spots: the narrow road at the top which is shared with the red piste and is about the same as the couloir on the Grand Col in terms of difficulty, the area around the Plan Violet which can be stony and the black bit below after the restaurant, which can be easily avoided and is frequently closed anyway. Give it a go. Ask Son number 11 to show you the way Toofy Grin
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johnE wrote:
Quote:

Feeling very pleased with myself.

And so you should. That red down from the Grand Col is not easy. IMHO I think the Black down from the Aigulle Rouge is easier. There are 3 tricky spots: the narrow road at the top which is shared with the red piste and is about the same as the couloir on the Grand Col in terms of difficulty, the area around the Plan Violet which can be stony and the black bit below after the restaurant, which can be easily avoided and is frequently closed anyway. Give it a go. Ask Son number 11 to show you the way Toofy Grin


There was me deciding that I didn't have the bottle to do the red from AR today (I was tempted) and opted for Grand Col instead. Though this was partly driven by a chat with 11s instructor who told me that Grand Col conditions were perfect this morning (their group had been up there this morning) and that AR was a bit icy yesterday. I absolutely did not fancy it if it was icy, but thought that if Grand Col conditions were good, then I should just go for it.
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@Owlette, your story of complaints from your boy remind me of my son a few years ago.

We were at lunch at Le Savoy in Arc 2000. “Dad, I’m really jealous of my friend Lex, he’s gone to Australia… how come we never go anywhere like that?”

Er…..
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@Richie_S, The reply to your offspring is "because we like you"
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@johnE, Very Happy
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Richie_S wrote:
@Owlette, your story of complaints from your boy remind me of my son a few years ago.

We were at lunch at Le Savoy in Arc 2000. “Dad, I’m really jealous of my friend Lex, he’s gone to Australia… how come we never go anywhere like that?”

Er…..


Doh!
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Another awesome day today.

A solo morning again. I pootled into the centre of 2000 just for a nose, and spotted a lift I didn't know was there: Lanchettes. I glanced at the map on the lift briefly, clocked the blue Resevoir run and decided to hop on. After the slowest and most boring ride ever, I was startled to find that my only option down was a red marked 'Aguille Rouge'. I'd come out at the point where the AG black turns red! Very glad I didn't have husband with me as he'd have been very cross. Found Reservoir once I'd navigated that red for a bit! The black from there (Combes) was shut.

Then husband and children joined me this afternoon. We had a squashed ride up in the Transarc when three guys shoved themselves into our already packed carriage at the last second declaring 'well it holds 15'. Not comfortably it doesn't!

Convinced husband to take the red down to the start of Plan Vert so that we could go along that whilst the boys went in the Boardercross alongside us. Then down into 1950 for some overpriced gassy beer at Monkey Coffee, and up Bois where we headed for the Snowpark. We navigated it once, then told the boys we were heading to L'Arpette, where we hung out whilst they did laps of the snowpark. We asked them to come down in time for the last lift and were on the Arpette lift by 1705, ready for it to close at 1710. This was husbands idea, he was enjoying it so much.

Then home to 1800, but this time I took them along Charmettoger and Plan Bois, past Derby and along Maitaz. None of them had been that way before and all three loved it. Husband because its super cruisey, and the boys because the mountain was now empty and they skied almost all the way along Plan Bois and Maitaz backwards! In fact, 11 skied all the way down to the bottom of the Transarc backwards!

We hopped straight onto Villards and headed for LFD. When we left an hour later, husband commented that it never gets old leaving the pub and putting on skis. Whilst in LFD, he, Mr 'I'm not fussed on skiing, I only go because you three love it', commented that he could easily do two weeks here.

Les Arcs has hit the spot for all 4 of us. Something for us all.

9 year old is considering snowboarding next year. He's been taken in by the promise of comfortable boots rather than ski boots.
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@Owlette, The boys behaviour coming up to "witching Wednesday" usually the most tired point of a single weeks skiing, is in all probability quite normal I feel. Once the fitness and cadence of the week starts getting into it's stride after that it generally gets much more optimistic Very Happy

Les Arcs has a lot to offer I feel, such range of piste etc in a compact area really, usually always an alternative route/option to navigate for different abilities making it eminently suitable for families and mixed groups.

If you return, it's all a little easier too with that knowledge built up as you can all crack on with favourite things to do. I've been there many times since starting skiing in 2000 village. Its always been good, I like the whole attitude and outlook of it as a really get on with it type destination. Skied many other places, but always happy in returning here.

For convenience in 1800, Alpage de Chantel area is our favourite for ski in/out convenience, worth a look while you're there to assess for future trip, almost level with LFD and very convenient. We've stayed there with tour operators and through private rental, there's good variety of apartments there.

Great to hear it's been a success for your family.
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@ski3, Definitely agree about Witching Wednesday. In the past, in Austria, the youngest has often taken the morning off mid week and rejoined lessons after lunch. With them only having morning lessons here, I've been reluctant for them to miss any. So I think next year we'll book then in for afternoon lessons, which will give us the flexibility for a more relaxed start to the day.

We like returning to places as its easier when you have the lay of the land. It took until Wednesday for us to figure out the best way to get up that hill from Transarc to the meet point near Dahu. Felt like a real slog the first morning. Now I pull 9 up (and occasionally 11) and along the flat. I don't mind, it keeps them cheerful. And if they're happy, I'm happy. I tend to drop off in my normal boots and then come back to get changed.

I did say I'd like to stay level with LFD next time so that we can ski to ski school rather than walk, so I will absolutely look at that, thank you. We've been in Ruitor this time. Not far in street shoes, but can be a slog carrying skis.

In recent news, it's snowing hard in 1800 this morning. Getting ready for the new influx of people.
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@Owlette, I have an apartment in the Alpage du Chantel area and I agree with @ski3 that it’s a good location, offering very convenient ski access. With the Dahu lift (and the free resort shuttle bus) running until late evening getting to the resort centre and back for shopping and apres is very easy, and it’s a short walk or ski back from the Folie. I think it’s a better location than the other side of the resort, especially if you are trying to get kids up to the ski school meeting point first thing in the morning.
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Hi guys been in arc 2000 for the past week which has been great as posts above have alluded to. We have an extra day tomorrow due to flights being on Sunday but when we arrived last Saturday only a couple of lifts were open in arc 2000/1950. Does anyone know if this is a regular Saturday thing due to changeover or just due to snow from last storm and time for pistuers and lifties to get everything back in order? Don’t want to fork out a heap on another day including ski hire just for a couple of lifts. Cheers R
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@riman8, usually Saturday skiing is very busy, with a lot of weekenders, so no, it's not a Saturday thing to only have 2 lifts open.
Have a look at Samedijeski.fr for cheaper Saturday lift passes if your run out today ( Friday)
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@Arctic Roll, Cheers will take a look at the website. R
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@riman8, the day before you arrived there was a lot of fresh snow, rain and thunder storms. Most of the Saturday there was a lot of avalanche blasting making the resort safe. Judging by how busy 1600/1800 was I think a lot of people had taken the navette around to 1600 fro 2000. And yes a lot of lifts were closed upto the ridge but the others were open. The Friday was much worse with only the odd lift opening for a couple of minutes.

As @Arctic Roll, says there are often a lot weekenders on Saturday and Sunday. For some reason Saturday is often the more busy of the two days.
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Just packing up ready to leave 1800. We've had a blinder of a week.

Finished strong yesterday. Husband skied with me in the morning. We took Carreley up to the ridge and headed into 2000 via blues. We stopped for coffee in Le Savoy, which was beautiful and very civilised, whilst a snow storm blew outside. We headed up Varet and did Vallee de L'arc down. There was limited visibility and it was hard going on the flatter bits due to the new snowfall and nobody else using it.

Picked the boys up from ski school in 1800, where I'm pleased to report both passed their levels (Yeti 2 and 3 respectively), and they didn't want to stop for lunch immediately, so we went back over to 1950 for lunch via Vagere and Transarc and the Boardercross. Down to the bottom of Vallee and up the blue bubble chair, then back down and across via Bois chair. The boys had a short play in the snowpark, we had a drink at L'Arpette bar, then down to 1800. We wanted to finish the day over in Vallandry, so we used Vagere to get us back up, down to the Derby chair via Plan Bois and finished the day running through Forêt Pitchouns and back down to 1800 via Maitaz. I'm glad we finally made it over to Forêt Pitchouns as it was great fun and a really lovely run to end the week on.

11 had spent the morning over that way and had gone to the museum during his lesson, but they'd focused on reds, so Forêt Pitchouns was new to us all.

My husband was ready to hang up his ski boots after our trip to Austria in December. It was so icy, he kept falling over, and his confidence was shattered. This trip has boosted his confidence no end, and he was even occasionally turning parallel yesterday. He had a tumble just before the Transarc, but when he came down to us after getting up, he was laughing and said that'll teach him for getting cocky. Nice soft landing makes all the difference.

It's improved us all no end. 11 is already a good skier, but his notes in his Yeti book say he's had good, noticeable improvement, including keeping his skis further apart. 9 now consistently parallel skis, as do I. And I can comfortably get down reds, albeit slower than many folk, but hey, it's not a race.

Only a year to go until we're back again.

Blue skies today for those of you arriving today. Enjoy!
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@Owlette, good to hear

Our kids like Foret as well, even though all in 20s now Laughing as there’s lots of drop off through trees and on lift line to play in when snows good.
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On the transfer bus heading up to Les Arcs now for a very keenly awaited week.

@Owlette your posts this week have really whetted the appetite. Great to hear you had such a successful trip, it wasn't long ago we were all doing snow dances in the hope that there'd be any snow by Easter !

If anyone has recommendations for restaurants for dinner in 1800 (with 2 kids so can't be all fondue) I'd be grateful to hear them.
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(with 2 kids so can't be all fondue)

Don't understand. My experience is that children love fondues. Are you just worried that they will consume too much cheese? But then again I think a fondue every night would give me a heart attack.
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@colmhardiman,

Glad to hear that! I'm a bit jealous of you arriving now.

We didn't really eat out in the evening, but we loved La Station, the basement bowling alley/bar/arcades in Villards. The entrance is a sliding door near the ATM. They do pizza and things there, but we only had drinks, and they'd bring over bowls of popcorn and sweets for the kids. The amaretto sour there is the best I've ever had too.
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Just back from an amazing week in Les Arcs. The snow conditions were amazing and we were treated to lots of mornings with full sunshine, once the cloud and mist had gone away, which basically was when the first lift for us opened which was Peisey.

We covered a lot of miles for us and whizzed around the groomed and quite quiet pistes in the mornings.

Derby and the pistes below that was a favourite of ours and once our beginners had, had a couple of days lessons we were able to meet at the restaurant there. Service was a tad chaotic at times but nice to have a bite to eat and quick drink and then ski the afternoon.

Passes worked well, we'd ordered them online and they were posted out to us and just worked from day 1!! Or rather day 0!!
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Snow conditions were great, probably slightly better than last season, although we were based in La Plagne last year. Plus Easter was later last year.

I do fear a bit for those coming out 'now' - there were a few pistes which were thin in places or shut due to lack of snow, but higher up there is plenty. We had a bit of snow on a couple of days which helped to top things up. Plus the freezing level kept on getting lower and lower which also helped.

We ate out on one of the evenings - Solan in Peisey which is right next to the Peisey chair and Vanoise. Great selection, tasty food. Slight shame there wasn't meat fondue, but most of us had Pierrade instead and some had Cheese Fondue. Lovely evening rounded off with complimentary Genepi. Great setting, plus it was literally on our doorstep.

Mont Blanc bar is worth a mention, close to the Vallandry and Grizzly lifts. Pool table and table football. They have/had a band on one of the evenings and show football on television if that's your thing.

We really enjoyed the restaurant near the bottom of the Crozets chair lift in La Plagne - great setting and decent prices + options.

After a few times of eating out during the day we had a couple of lunches in our chalet. Although it should be noted that most Sherpas shut at 12:30 and don't reopen until 15:00. I think we got to one at 12:31 and so missed out!

Folie Douce is worth the experience if you like that sort of thing and the music. Great atmosphere.

Got a whole load of pictures and
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Also returning after a great week. Highlights of the skiing were two black runs that we had never done before and at opposite ends of the piste map. Malgovert feels more like an off piste route - really unusual - and over above Vallandry Ecureuils was a rare example of a bashed black that made a pleasant change from moguls. Picked the wrong time of week to ski Aiguille Rouge - always a great run but had been scraped of any fresh snow when we did it which made things a bit sketchy at the top. As others have mentioned The Grand Col had fantastic snow in the mornings. Great week overall!
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@Yukon, Malgovert is an excellent route, especially after fresh snow. As you know until a few years ago it was graded as a red, but in reality no grade fits. The narrow chutes , occisional rocks (especially at the start of the season) great variety of routes and out of the way ness make it a lovely excursion. Just don't expect wide carved turns. To me it is like no other piste anywhere. I love it.

I suppose that Ecureuils is about as different a route as possible. The top section is usually mogulled then after the snack bar you get to what can be the hardest setcion - a flat track through the trees, which in spring often has large tracts of genuine blue water ice, of which the only way over is just to go straight and hope. After that there are two possible routes: a steep mogul filed off to the right or straight on to the less steep part arcing around it that is often bashed, mainly I think to maintain the snow as there often bare patches on it. A good route, nontheless.

Most blacks in Les Arcs are "natur" and some of those that aren't, like Combourciere, are rarely bashed. Oddly the one that seems to be bashed the most is called Bosses.
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Yes - couldn't agree more about Malgovert, will be back to do that over and over again I'm sure. Fascinating to hear about the ice on Ecureuils - we had absolutely perfect snow until the very lowest bit so it was perhaps unusual. Interesting to hear Bosses gets bashed - we did this run on Friday and despite hoping for soft moguls as everywhere had a few cm of new snow, Bosses was pretty tough for me at least and was quite rutted. Whilst the "natur" slopes cater for many, I do like to do some steeper stuff without moguls when possible!
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First day yesterday and what a corker. Not a cloud in the sky all day. Feared for super hard pack in the morning, but whilst firm it was grippy - at least above Arpette. (We are staying in 1950) Decided to take a chance and head down to Carrelley and even at 11am it was boiler plate.

Softened up a lot in the afternoon and again not worth exploring below Arpette/Derby chair level.

Kids had great first morning - two eldest taken up on AR as their second run (the instructor said it was too nice a day not to do it, and I expect the weather is going downhill from here)

Youngest, 10, was a little nervous heading out (he is retaking Etoile 2 as advised by last years instructor) but good to see beaming smiles by lunch time.

Good ski with the whole family after lunch until 3 when wife and youngest headed home and the two oldest and I blatted off to cover some miles. Over to the Derby - lapped that a few times on the Bellette and the Rhodes before stopping for Chocolate and then heading home.

Great first day and all exhausted and ready for bed straight after dinner.
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Good deed for the day, found an iPhone dropped on the slopes and after a short while it was called by its owner’s mother and we were able to reunite them.
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Richie_S wrote:
Good deed for the day, found an iPhone dropped on the slopes and after a short while it was called by its owner’s mother and we were able to reunite them.


Very Happy

Sounds like you had a wonderful first day. We found below Arpette to be The Slush Zone in the afternoons. Great news about being able to make it up to AR!
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Looks like there are cold temps and a bit of snow coming between now and Friday.

I'm considering a last minute trip, skiing Thursday to Sunday - need someone here to tell me it's a bad idea haha
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