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Itinerary recommendations for a ski month in the alps?

 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
basandere8 wrote:
Noted! Sounds like most travel will route through Geneva regardless so I think I will start with Zermatt (maybe a little less than a week), head back to Geneva and then head to 3V/tignes (I know I can bus between the two). End in Chamonix so I have an easy trip back to the airport?


That sounds like a plan!! Cool

One thing I did notice was that the IKON pass says it covers the Grand Montets area at Argentiere in the Chamonix Valley, but obviously can't include the fabled top lift up to the glacier that was fire damaged and being rebuilt to open in Dec 2026.

Also, no mention of free access to Aiguille du Midi, Montenvers train or Skyway MB on the Italian side...I asked Google AI and it said it didn't include these, though maybe some discount...not sure if this impinges on any of your off-piste plans there?? Classic Vallee Blanche? Punta Helbronner to Vallee Blanche?

I guess there is enough elsewhere in the valley?? snowHead
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
@basandere8, please take anything I might write with a pinch of salt as I am biased (about to commence my 10th season in the Chamonix area this winter).

Don’t leave yourself short of time in Chamonix. It really is remarkable. You have 7 free days there with the Ikon pass. If you are hoping to get off into the wild blue yonder with a guide or guided group then you may not need to use a high value full day pass for any uplift. Equally, many of the great local day touring ventures may start with lifts elsewhere (look up Champex, La Fouly, Vicheres, Les Marecottes for a few examples) and are accessed by a cheap touring ticket.

If you give yourself 10 to 14 days there you can do the wilderness stuff and half days in the lift served valley ski areas.

There are plenty of Chamonix types on here who can give you pointers and more than one female poster who may be around at the time and looking for a partner in crime.

Just to repeat, I am biased. But after all this time, I ski mostly new routes for me, with a lifetime’s worth I will never scratch the surface of.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
@HammondR, so my guess that there's probably enough elsewhere in the valley was just a bit of an understatement! snowHead snowHead
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@basandere8,
When you have made up your mind then the Snow reports forum has plenty of general resort info on the relevant resort thread eg 1st post here for Tignes https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=173921

For touring try https://snowheads.com/ski-forum/viewtopic.php?t=174574

Given your current outline itinerary I'd suggest starting in Chamonix, by road transfer from Geneva airport, same back, then road transfer to 3 Valleys (I'd recommend Mottaret as a base - middle of the three valleys & plenty of ski in/out or close to lift accommodation), then road transfer up the Isere valley (aka Tarentaise) to Tignes (I'd recommend accommodation in one of the 2100m villages - Lavachet having a high % of accommodation on or close to the pistes), then road transfer back to Geneva airport, and the train from the airport to Zermatt (change at Visp) - train back to the airport.

Potential accommodation providers (and possible organisers of transfers, guides, lift passes etc):-
Resort specific otp.co.uk (Zermatt based); tignes.co.uk (Tignes based);
more general sunweb.co.uk; peakfeeling-ski.com (but based in Tignes); action-outdoors.co.uk
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
I spotted this...someone getting some early season turns up at Tignes in recent days...


http://youtube.com/v/_y2Lj9qug6o
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Quote:

So @basandere8, you may want to consider get your own transceiver, and maybe taking a avi I class while you’re in the states. It would be a shame not to take some advantage of those easy off piste. But you should have at least some basic knowledge so don’t blindly head into glaring terrain traps


This is the best advice. You are potentially going to miss out on lots when you could just prepare a little better with an avy course in advance. That and some equipment and you could probably get out without the need for a guide on some of the non-glaciated stuff. Look at the oak app for finding partners for off-piste skiing.
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
boarder2020 wrote:
Quote:

So @basandere8, you may want to consider get your own transceiver, and maybe taking a avi I class while you’re in the states. It would be a shame not to take some advantage of those easy off piste. But you should have at least some basic knowledge so don’t blindly head into glaring terrain traps


This is the best advice. You are potentially going to miss out on lots when you could just prepare a little better with an avy course in advance. That and some equipment and you could probably get out without the need for a guide on some of the non-glaciated stuff. Look at the oak app for finding partners for off-piste skiing.


This is great advice, thanks. I originally didn't want to plan on touching anything off-piste even with a beacon and an avi course since I mostly ski alone, but maybe I'll get it together to take a course before I leave the states and find a buddy!
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
@basandere8, as someone "very comfortable off piste" you would be nuts not put yourself in a position to do as much off piste as possible.
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Actually the more I think about it, the more I wonder why even pick Europe?

I'm assuming you don't have touring experience. In which case it's maybe a bit of a jump to go from nothing to hut to hut touring. Also, I'm not sure Chamonix is the place for hut to hut anyway. In general I'd say hut to hut doesn't even necessarily equal the kind of advanced skiing you are looking for. It's more about sense of travel - e.g. a classic hut to hut like haute route is far less interesting downhill than you would get just doing lift served single day touring in chamonix.

As an advanced off piste skier, being stuck on pistes in Europe is pretty boring. (I know I've been there!). It's literally just groomers or bumps. You might be able to find some places that have controlled off-piste sections, but it's way less extensive than USA and Canada.

Yes you can find partners, but you are going to need some experience yourself. You certainly shouldn't be relying on others, who may or may not know what they are doing. Of course you can also pay for guides, but gets expensive.

With an iKON pass in your position I'd be looking at Canada - revy, red, Banff all great controlled off piste terrain. Can add a few days at kicking horse - which has as good advanced terrain as anywhere in europe. Then hire a guide to do a hut trip to Rogers pass.

If you want the whole Europe experience, sure why not. If you just want great skiing Canada may suit your needs better and probably saves a lot of money.
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Someone got off the wrong side of bed today! rolling eyes
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@abc, actually I had a great morning going up to a viewpoint at a little under 3600m with beautiful views of the Himalayas including a really nice angle of Dhaulagiri. Thanks for asking wink

Maybe rather than just making snarky comments and looking for arguments you could provide something constructive. My post above wasn't argumentative, I didn't even say don't go to the Alps (in fact I said if you want the euro experience then go Laughing). It was simply an alternative suggestion. If I was in OPs situation, and my focus was on maximising quality advanced off-piste terrain I would personally prefer the Canada option. Even more so as they don't have avalanche training/experience. I say this as someone who would put both Chamonix and kicking horse in my top favourite resorts so hardly bias.
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
@basandere8,
Ski schools who offer off-piste instruction should also provide off piste kit (transceiver, probe, shovel & backpack) and instruction on how to use them.
Some resorts have unlisted, patrolled runs marked on their piste maps (often called something along the lines of 'itinerary' or 'naturide').
Ensure that your insurance specifically covers you for 'off-piste', and not just 'backcountry'.
If you do end up in Chamonix, try to book onto a group doing the Vallee Blanche. If you end up in Tignes-Val d'Isere, ditto for the Tarentaise Tour (and assimilate with the locals be calling the area by its old/proper name - Espace Killy wink ) and/or ask Steve Angus about the Bonneval sur Arc trip he runs at the time of year you are looking at.
Off-piste guidebooks are available in many resorts eg www.descentes.eu
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 So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
So if you're just off somewhere snowy come back and post a snow report of your own and we'll all love you very much
boarder2020 wrote:
Actually the more I think about it, the more I wonder why even pick Europe?

I'm assuming you don't have touring experience. In which case it's maybe a bit of a jump to go from nothing to hut to hut touring. Also, I'm not sure Chamonix is the place for hut to hut anyway. In general I'd say hut to hut doesn't even necessarily equal the kind of advanced skiing you are looking for. It's more about sense of travel - e.g. a classic hut to hut like haute route is far less interesting downhill than you would get just doing lift served single day touring in chamonix.

As an advanced off piste skier, being stuck on pistes in Europe is pretty boring. (I know I've been there!). It's literally just groomers or bumps. You might be able to find some places that have controlled off-piste sections, but it's way less extensive than USA and Canada.

Yes you can find partners, but you are going to need some experience yourself. You certainly shouldn't be relying on others, who may or may not know what they are doing. Of course you can also pay for guides, but gets expensive.

With an iKON pass in your position I'd be looking at Canada - revy, red, Banff all great controlled off piste terrain. Can add a few days at kicking horse - which has as good advanced terrain as anywhere in europe. Then hire a guide to do a hut trip to Rogers pass.

If you want the whole Europe experience, sure why not. If you just want great skiing Canada may suit your needs better and probably saves a lot of money.


Yep, I already know to manage my expectations. I am going to Europe because I want the experience and have never been and I know climate change is worsening snow in the alps more quickly than out west, so I 'd rather go sooner rather than later. Hopefully Canada next time!

Quote:
@basandere8,
Ski schools who offer off-piste instruction should also provide off piste kit (transceiver, probe, shovel & backpack) and instruction on how to use them.
Some resorts have unlisted, patrolled runs marked on their piste maps (often called something along the lines of 'itinerary' or 'naturide').
Ensure that your insurance specifically covers you for 'off-piste', and not just 'backcountry'.
If you do end up in Chamonix, try to book onto a group doing the Vallee Blanche. If you end up in Tignes-Val d'Isere, ditto for the Tarentaise Tour (and assimilate with the locals be calling the area by its old/proper name - Espace Killy wink ) and/or ask Steve Angus about the Bonneval sur Arc trip he runs at the time of year you are looking at.
Off-piste guidebooks are available in many resorts eg www.descentes.eu


Thank you, will do this!
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 You know it makes sense.
You know it makes sense.
basandere8 wrote:

I probably can get away with skiing into mid afternoons, just don't want a long commute back!


If you pick your accommodation with this in mind, most of the big named resorts have loads of accommodation within 10 mins walk/bus ride from the home run(s).....if you push the boat out in 3V you can get ski in/out hotels for top $$$$
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
boarder2020 wrote:

Maybe rather than just making snarky comments and looking for arguments you could provide something constructive.

I already did. And thank you for quoting it as “the best advice” above! Laughing Laughing Laughing

All your babbling about whether to go to Europe was already laid out by the OP in the opening post. The OP wanted to ski Europe. She merely indicated her skill level by referring to off-piste skiing. Nowhere did she say her focus was on off-piste.

As for your comment of European piste as “boring”, you’re projecting your own preference far beyond what ANYONE would. In fact, the OP doesn’t even need to go to Canada. She very likely already has very good off-piste where she normally skis. Frankly, your so called “alternative suggestion” was delivered like a sermon to a non church goer! (Or akin to suggesting seafood as an “alternative” to meat while the quest was for vegetarian food rolling eyes )
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 Poster: A snowHead
Poster: A snowHead
Hi folks,

I'm back! Thanks to all your advice, I've got a great itinerary set up for the month of March -- a weekish each in Zermatt, Chamonix, 3V (based in Mottaret), and then Val d'Isère/Tignes. I've figured out I can take trains from Zermatt to Chamonix via the Mont blanc express, and I've got transit sorted between 3V and Tignes. Only question left is getting between Chamonix and 3V. This will definitely be the biggest pain, and from what I can tell my best option is to bus back up to Geneva and then bus to the 3V. Just wanted to check in in case there was some easier route or train I wasn't thinking of?

Thank you!
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Logical and should be readily available (in no particular order) are:- train to Moutiers then local bus into 3V / "Altibus" service which likely will be direct to 3V destination village (route check on their site) to give one shop solution / also "Bensbus" a shared transfer company specialising in ski transfer services.
Other than the rail option, the Bus services likely best connection is via Geneva Airport.

Another "Coolbus" company based in Bourg saint Maurice, offering shared/bespoke transfers services to Tarantaise Valley ski destinations from various collection. Again, route check etc via enquiry on their site.

A very good mix of different ski areas you've chosen, hope you enjoy the whole trip, it'll pack in significant contrast from one to another.
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Coming to this late, but two recommendations for Zermatt:
- lunch at Chez Vrony (in Sunnegga sector)
- if the link to Italy is open, the long run from the top down to Valtournenche (below Cervinia) is sublime.
Regarding the Dolomites, true it gets much less snowfall than the Tarantaise, but it has the best snowmaking anywhere. And also, along with Zermatt (but at much more reasonable prices) the best mountain restaurants in the Alps.
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Hello all —

Back now a week away from my trip and would love any specific recs — food, drink, pistes, etc, for Zermatt, Chamonix and Meribel (will be staying in Mottaret). I will be remote working in the afternoons and evenings so especially taking any recs for cafes and or bars that might have wifi and not be annoyed by someone posting up with a laptop.

In Chamonix I would love to ski the Valle Blanche and plan to book with a group; do these trips usually fill up? Should I book far in advance?

I might also like to hire a guide/instructor early on in my time in Zermatt. I haven't taken a lesson since I was a teenager and though I'm advanced skier, I figure my technique could almost certainly use a brush-up. Any recs for specific guides or schools much appreciated. And is it worth it to hire a guide for specifically off-piste in Zermatt? I know a lot of off piste is off limits in the alps due to the recent avalanches but not sure if that will change in the next couple of weeks.

Thank you all for the guidance so far -- very much looking forward to this trip!
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Check out the lift pass options that allow you to take some days off without paying for the lift pass - we used ski a la carte this year for 3 weeks - 1 in Les Carroz, 1 in Flaine, 1 in Les Arcs - and we will be going back in a couple of weeks.

You get a discount on the day rate which means if you do ski 6 days in a row its about the same price as a 6-day pass, but if you take a day off then you don't pay - then the 9th and every 5th day there after is only 1euro. Saturdays are generally even cheaper so if you can time your skiing days to include Saturdays the savings can be quite significant. Ski a la carte covers Paradiski, Espace Killy, Grand Massif, Les Trois Vallees and Serre Chevalier and all you do is rock up at the next resort and it automatically charges your credit card overnight. if you are in Paradiski or Grand Massif you only get charged for the local area unless you do two resorts in one day.
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@basandere8, the risk of avalanches has dramatically reduced. All of the Northern french Alps are now at 2. Zermatt will be similar. Whether there will be any off piste snow worth skiing is a trickier question though.

https://meteofrance.com/meteo-montagne/alpes-du-nord/risques-avalanche

Maybe light snow falls from the 7th onwards

https://www.wetterzentrale.de/en/show_diagrams.php?model=gfs&lid=ENS&var=201&bw=1&geoid=10676
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 Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
Then you can post your own questions or snow reports...
For off piste, I would strongly recommend going with a guide. You can snoop around on your own, try to get some turns in off piste that's a few meters off the piste or attempt to venture farther afield off piste on your own. If I were a solo skier, I'd sign myself up for a half day of off piste with a local guide and get a small idea of what is possible. If the weather and snow are awful, at least you'll be safe. If the snow is great and the visibility is okay, you're in for some amazing skiing that you would never find on your own. Plus, it's your safest option. These are huge areas and big mountains. You can end up in some very bad places left to your own devices. You can also spend the day struggling in bad snow and ugly terrain, when a few hundred meters away you could be skiing in amazing terrain and conditions. The guide will take care of transceivers, shovels and probes, and airbags. Plus you'll learn a lot and gain a new perspective on what skiing is all about. Worth every penny. Also, keep in mind that big area doesn't mean the best skiing. I've gone with a guide to smaller areas and had some of the best days of skiing ever with nobody around. However, finding new snow (even with a guide) in big name off piste areas like 3V, Val D' Isere and Tignes, and Chamonix means sharing with a few thousand of your closest, powder mad friends. In any event, get ready for an amazing trip.
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 After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
After all it is free Go on u know u want to!
Quote:
For off piste, I would strongly recommend going with a guide...In any event, get ready for an amazing trip
The OP will have finished her trip about a week ago now @choucas Very Happy

Seems strange we've heard not a peep from her during the trip or since though...Puzzled I'm hoping all went ok. Are you receiving @basandere8?
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