 Poster: A snowHead
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We are sat in our apartment looking out towards the bottom of Ramasse in Val Cenis. Lots of fine snow blowing about and looks quite foggy higher up. A few are out skiing but it’s very quiet.
I think we are having a settling in day today.
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@altis probably very wise. We've just had a run in Orelle - lovely snow but not much visibility. Webcams over VT seem a bit better so heading there now- if nothing else we'll have a vin chaude at top of cime Caron and then head down!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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FYI lovely skiing in the end found in VT. Lapping Boismint and plan de l"eau lifts and pistes. Can't really see the surface so a day for "feeling the mountain" through the feet but lovely snow!
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 You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Turns out the rest on Sunday was a very good plan. I spent the day curled up on the sofa making frequent and urgent trips to the toilet. Although the beef something-or-other in Tinqueuex was very nice there was an awful lot of meat and my stomach is just not used to it.
Today dawned bright and blue so we chose to head over the road to Val Cenis. But first Mrs A spent a good 15 minutes playing hunt the ski pass. She’d virtually turned the place over before we happened to notice it on a chair under the dining table. Grrr. Then, at the first turnstile, she didn’t move forward fast enough and it locked her out. We tried another lift but still no joy so she waited while I did a short lap. Not a good start to the day!
After that things improved. The sky stayed blue until just before the end when a few clouds rolled in. There was little wind on the ground but some of the lifts were a bit chilly. However the snow was wonderful. Plenty of soft stuff off the pistes, sometimes without tracks too, but every so often there’d be a hard crust on the top as wind slab had started to form. Even so there was much fun to be had alongside the Col de Mont Cenis drag. When it’s good it’s really good here but often the slopes are scoured by wind over the col. Also had a good time around the Met chair but eventually our lack of ski fitness took its toll and we resorted to doing laps on the Columba chair and down the beginners slopes.
All the lifts are open and there’s plenty of snow right down to resort level.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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Trying to book the Skiogrande pass. When I put in a SKIDATA keycard number from an old lift pass this is not accepted? Any idea why or if I am doing something wrong?
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 You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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| brownie wrote: |
| Trying to book the Skiogrande pass. When I put in a SKIDATA keycard number from an old lift pass this is not accepted? Any idea why or if I am doing something wrong? |
Skiogrande will provide you with a new card at €7, don’t believe there is the option to load it onto an old card of any description - they have even got rid of their own ‘old’ card and updated them all to a new version.
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Thanks! Just ordered , hopefully will arrive by the time we head out a week on Saturday.
Will be based in Val Cenis but with a car to visit other areas.
Can anyone advise on the best off piste areas / tours in the HM? Assume there is still no off piste / tours book of the area other than the Cicerone Vanoise tour one?
Have been before but relied on the now defunct Fat Maps. Got a couple of tours recorded via my Garmin but otherwise struggling to recall where we skied.
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A slow start this morning and then we drove up to Bonneval. A huge avalanche, complete with trees, had crossed the road after Bessans some time earlier and the snow ploughs had cut a trench perhaps 6 or 7 metres deep so we could get through. The car park down to the right was full by the time we arrived. Much of the space taken by a huge Czech coach and trailer and a load of vans associated with a film crew. We ended up back on the road on the way in so had a bit of a walk back to the lift.
The weather was still sunny but with a bit more haze than yesterday. Despite the altitude it felt a bit warmer than yesterday. It showed in the snow too. There’s loads of it about (more than when we were there last year) but the surface is starting to melt making anything off piste heavy work. So frustrating, just a few years ago I would have bounced down it but today I was just too tired for anything more than short bursts.
To begin with it felt a bit busier than yesterday but in the afternoon we played around the 3000 lift and we hardly saw anyone else. All the off piste was already trashed though.
We finished early and stopped at the bottom on the balcony of the Marmots bar. After a while we saw a party of 3 + guide slowly descending offpisteskiing’s “direct to the car park” couloir. It looks fearsome from over the valley. Then, to get back to the van, we went up on the chair again then back down Alouette again (complete with things to bash and clang) then off down the valley beside the car park just as the coach was reversing out.
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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I was going to ask him where that couloir was! You should get a top up today and tomorrow hopefuly just about enough to make off piste viable again but wind might blow it away.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Great thanks! That website is very helpful
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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@brownie, two other options are the waymarked itineraires that start in resort:
https://hmvt.download/VC_SEM/SEM-VC-Plan-des-itineraires-de-ski-de-randonnee.pdf
Today we had a very slow start. I’m not sleeping well and I’m still fighting off something. We went the post office (open 9 - midday) to get some stamps and then to the tourist office to pick up a paper copy of the document above. Then we went to look at the start of the route to the Col de Mont Cenis. All seemed fine so we came back and packed up ready to go out only to find just as we were about to leave again that we had been talking at cross purposes all morning. I’d packed to go ski touring but Mrs A expected to be going for a walk. Ooops!
So she repacked while I adjusted my bindings for different boots and then tried to work out why one of Mrs A’s toe bindings wasn’t holding open properly. After much swapping round I deduced that it’s a problem with the spacer I’ve put under her left bindings to compensate for a leg mismatch. It’s made from a piece of 3mm cutting board and it seems the binding was slowly sinking into it. Turned the spacer over and problem sorted.
We departed from the start point next the the base of the Ramasse chair at midday! The route is very well waymarked (listen up Champagny) and after it had settled down was fairly steady going on zero riser. We only went up a notch as we got near the midpoint at 1750m. We crossed a piste, wiggled a bit and then crossed back. This was mostly on the first riser but then there seemed to be a bit of a detour to avoid a heavily loaded ravine. We popped back onto the red piste and had to use the second riser as we slogged up the edge. Eventually I spotted yellow poles off to the side so we stepped off the piste then steadily up until we merged back into the green Escargot piste which is the road over the col in the summer.
We made it the the bar/restaurant/hotel at the col in exactly 3 hours - pretty poor for nearly 700m of ascent but we’re out of practice. As we drank, we were entertained by a old woman in traditional costume who told us all about the Fell railway and why we say ‘hello’ when we answer a phone. We remember her from the last time we were there.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mont_Cenis_Pass_Railway
When we left the weather had changed from sunshine to snowy squalls and we had to wrap up for the descent. We soon stopped in a metal igloo thing to quickly eat some of out lunch and then carried on all the way down Escargot. At one point we spotted part of the old railway tunnel. As we got to the bottom it was raining so quickly legged it over the road to our apartment. As we sat down to drink a cup of tea it was 5pm. As instructed by the many signs, this was when we had to be off the mountain.
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 You know it makes sense.
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The forecast for today was pretty dire so we opted for a day off.
During the night some of the gusts were so strong that I thought there might be damage. It was snowing too but it was so fine that the wind was just blowing it all away somewhere. We could just see the glow through the haze of some piste bashers working up the mountain. Gosh, that must be a tough and lonely job in such weather.
In the morning the trees showed no sign that it had been snowing. I took the opportunity for a bit of boot fettling and then we ventured outside to check at the tourist office where the nearest laundrette is - as we thought, Lanslevillard. Then we wandered down the high street and bought some postcards but soon decided it was too cold and windy and returned to the apartment.
In the afternoon we caught the free navette up to Lanslevillard. They are supposed to be every 20 minutes but we must have stood around getting cold for 40. The launderette is in Le Saint-Landry over the river from the tourist office. 7 euros for a small wash and 3.50 for a tumble dry but the payment machine is a bit temperamental. We wandered about looking for somewhere to get a coffee but gave up in less than 20 minutes and took shelter next the the warm washing machines. Home again on the bus.
Tomorrow looks to be cold but with less wind and no more snow. We might try La Norma.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Cray du quart closed both sides today. So Valmeinir had their mountain. Valloire had Setaz mountain
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 Poster: A snowHead
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How’s the snow holding up? We’re heading to Val Cenis next weekend and I’m seeing mixed messages about temperatures from the forecasts
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@MotownJunk, i'll be skiing the area till about wed so can update you in due course. Should be great with around 30cm fresh? Maybe wind will have blown that away though
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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@8611, thanks! Hope you have a great trip and it doesn’t get blown about too much.
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 You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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There’s plenty of snow here and will be for some time. Yes, from our window I can see some bare patches on the gentle slopes that run by the road but the bashers will work hard at keeping them skiable. Up the mountain there’s still plenty - much more than when were here last year.
Today we drove to La Norma where there was loads of snow. On the way Mrs A saw a young stag by the road. The Station Cosy, as it likes to call itself, was very quiet. We saw no queues all day. We started in the mellow part to the lookers left of the mountain known as the Plateau de la Repose. This was bathed in warm sunshine that helped combat the sub-zero air temperature. The top of the mountain stayed shrouded in dark cloud so we put off heading up there until after lunch. When we did we soon wished we hadn’t as the blocked out sun and bitter wind saw our core temps drop. A quick change of plan saw us descend to the resort where, indoors, we donned all available clothing and then headed back to the sunny side where we did laps on the Granges button. Lovely snow for lots of lessons. Then up the Arpette chair where the trees had a thick sugar frosting then a quick loop of the Melezes button and then back to resort by the Sainte Anne green where some of the artificial snow was just beginning to melt.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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I forgot to mention the Airbus A400M that we saw flying up and down the valley yesterday. Not super low but still low enough for me to see the french flag on its side.
Today started sunny but with a lot of haze. Down in the woods of Val Cenis there didn’t seem to be any wind at all but we had a fight on our hands at the col. We took the shortest possible route to the Ranova for hot chocs - still recommended. Then right down to Le Haut and back up to the Salle Hors Sac under the Fema bar for lunch. Nearly there, I saw man, who later turned out to be American, let go of his snowboard. It went hurtling off and I had no chance to catch it but I saw where it left the piste, hit a marker board and then disappear into some trees. Good job they were there ‘cos the next thing down the hill was the crowded terrace of the Fema bar. Doesn’t bear thinking about really but the guy had absolutely no clue!
The Hors Sac was rammed - mostly with kids. After lunch we went up Solert and Met. As we reached the top we were met by a ferocious, bitter wind. I hid behind a rock to don all layers but it was too much for Mrs A so we headed back to the Hors Sac. We decided we might try the ‘wacky’ bar as we’ve named it before heading home. It’s a tiny refuge near the top of the Ramasse chair that’s run by an ex Hell’s Angel. Only, when we got there, we found it closed - and judging by the pile of snow up against the door, it had been for some time. We managed to miss the Auberge something-or-other so ended up back at the Fema for vins chaud. Hey ho!
Then straight down to the beginners area by Columba and the long but gentle roll home.
There’s still plenty of snow and, judging by the temperature forecast, it’s not going to melt soon but, because of the wind, the off piste now resembles concrete more than soft white powder. And do bring plenty of warm clothing - it can be bitter.
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 You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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[quote="altis"]It’s a tiny refuge near the top of the Ramasse chair that’s run by an ex Hell’s Angel. Only, when we got there, we found it closed - and judging by the pile of snow up against the door, it had been for some time.
It’s not been open all season.
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Strange vibe in Valloire today. Doesn't close till the 10th April but just had the feeling of shutting down. Lots of restaurants and hotels closed, town very quiet. Hard to get lunch on the slopes, or even in the town. Snow conditions excellent in parts, its so cold and there was fresh overnight, best conditions interestingly on the south facing slopes on the crey du quart side of valloire. I suspect the wind had blown snow over the ridge and the north facing stuff on the setaz side that I skied was wind affected with crust. Sun not playing a part in snow conditions due to cloud so aspect less important for now. Not sure how much stuff is getting pisted stuff seemed more rutted than the traffic would have led to. Will see what's what tomorrow. Plenty of snow and cold though so conditions should be excellent into the rest of Easter. Some sun would be nice!
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Couldn’t believe how quiet it was in Valloire today either. First day in resort and first trip here too, last Easter was in La Plagne which was no surprise significantly busier. Town last night was really quiet too, lots of places shut. But snow conditions were in the most part excellent on piste. And not getting anywhere near as chopped up due to light traffic and cloud cover.
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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| altis wrote: |
@brownie, two other options are the waymarked itineraires that start in resort:
https://hmvt.download/VC_SEM/SEM-VC-Plan-des-itineraires-de-ski-de-randonnee.pdf
Today we had a very slow start. I’m not sleeping well and I’m still fighting off something. We went the post office (open 9 - midday) to get some stamps and then to the tourist office to pick up a paper copy of the document above. Then we went to look at the start of the route to the Col de Mont Cenis. All seemed fine so we came back and packed up ready to go out only to find just as we were about to leave again that we had been talking at cross purposes all morning. I’d packed to go ski touring but Mrs A expected to be going for a walk. Ooops!
So she repacked while I adjusted my bindings for different boots and then tried to work out why one of Mrs A’s toe bindings wasn’t holding open properly. After much swapping round I deduced that it’s a problem with the spacer I’ve put under her left bindings to compensate for a leg mismatch. It’s made from a piece of 3mm cutting board and it seems the binding was slowly sinking into it. Turned the spacer over and problem sorted.
We departed from the start point next the the base of the Ramasse chair at midday! The route is very well waymarked (listen up Champagny) and after it had settled down was fairly steady going on zero riser. We only went up a notch as we got near the midpoint at 1750m. We crossed a piste, wiggled a bit and then crossed back. This was mostly on the first riser but then there seemed to be a bit of a detour to avoid a heavily loaded ravine. We popped back onto the red piste and had to use the second riser as we slogged up the edge. Eventually I spotted yellow poles off to the side so we stepped off the piste then steadily up until we merged back into the green Escargot piste which is the road over the col in the summer.
We made it the the bar/restaurant/hotel at the col in exactly 3 hours - pretty poor for nearly 700m of ascent but we’re out of practice. As we drank, we were entertained by a old woman in traditional costume who told us all about the Fell railway and why we say ‘hello’ when we answer a phone. We remember her from the last time we were there.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mont_Cenis_Pass_Railway
When we left the weather had changed from sunshine to snowy squalls and we had to wrap up for the descent. We soon stopped in a metal igloo thing to quickly eat some of out lunch and then carried on all the way down Escargot. At one point we spotted part of the old railway tunnel. As we got to the bottom it was raining so quickly legged it over the road to our apartment. As we sat down to drink a cup of tea it was 5pm. As instructed by the many signs, this was when we had to be off the mountain. |
Thanks again.
Good to hear there is plenty of snow, even if the off piste is weather affected
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The forecast for today was generally overcast with a little snow in the morning so we chose to have a bash at the other ski touring route noted above. We used the navette to Le Haut and started getting ready next to the gondola station. I couldn’t believe how many people were coming down the green run over the bridge - many of them with British voices too. All getting their ski legs back I assume.
Eventually, we set off at 10:30 up said green. The map shows this as the access to the actual start of the route. Why they didn’t just start it at the bottom I don’t know. It’s not the easiest sort of maps to follow but when I thought we should be crossing the luge run there was lots of orange netting so we just carried on up the edge of the piste. At the top of the gondola we followed a pedestrian path and soon hit on the rando route. We could see a line of yellow poles coming up the pasture below us - so nowhere near where the map said. Once we were on the route it seemed okay - easy going with no riser.
We came to a narrow track through trees that were pretty with a light dusting of snow. “This is pleasant going” I said - but soon wished I hadn’t. A sign directed us steeply up into the trees to our right. We engaged one riser and then two as we zig-zagged and then side stepped between trees on ground hardened be previous strugglers. I was not impressed and there were tears and much swearing elsewhere. And it went on and on until we popped out onto the Arcelles red at “Arrivee 1”. I certainly wouldn’t recommend this route to anyone with a high mohair content in their skins.
We nearly gave up there and then but, as we didn’t feel as though we had got anywhere, we pressed on. The next section was back to narrow track on a huge dog leg into the forest then back near the base of the Plan Cardinal chair. The map suggested we should cross the piste and stop at “Arrivee 2” but it didn’t make sense at all.
We knew that the Ranova was within striking distance so we carried on up the side of the piste when we spotted more yellow poles to our left. We followed them and soon gained another track that headed off to the left. This was nothing like the map but made more sense with the name of the route: Les Chalets de l’Arcelle.
Mrs A was running low on fuel but we decided to press on knowing that the chalets were not far above us. The track stayed good and we zig-zagged a bit but soon popped out next to the chalets where there was a yellow sign pronouncing “Arrivee 2, 2200m”. Yay, but it was 3pm by then - oof!
We found a bench by one on the chalets and ate our lunch then decided to press on to the Ranova. As we passed the next chalet we saw a man in an ESF suit leaning out of a window trying to close the shutters. Still with skins on we waddled and slid our way down to the Ranova where the owner feigned suitable amazement that we had got their under our own steam. The vins chaud were nice too. We like this place a lot - tasteful interior, always welcoming and attentive, and good food too.
Skins packed away, we joined the, what seemed like, hoards wending their way home down Arcelline. We even saw another tourer still ascending at Arrivee 1. Then down to the Columba lift and our run along the valley to home where we stepped off the snow at just 5 o’clock.
We were so slow today that we were considering if our touring days are over. But then we discovered that the Refuge Plan du Lac is now manned during the touring season. That’s a game changer as we know to our cost that, otherwise, getting all the way from Termignon to La Femma is a very, very long day on skins.
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 snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
snowHeads are a friendly bunch.
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Do I take it val cenis is busy then? Maybe they market themselves better as easter destination?
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 And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
And love to help out and answer questions and of course, read each other's snow reports.
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It was certainly busier than last week, Saturday especially. But it’s not looking busy at all out there now - probably something to do with the thick grey cloud and tiny flocons coming out of it.
Today was forecast to be bad so we’re taking another day off. We plan to see the film Le Chant des Forets up in Lanslevillard this evening. It doesn’t finish until 10pm so we might be walking home.
I guess, in reality, it’s not that busy over all - it just seems so compared with last week. What did surprise me though is that at least half of them seemed to be Brits. And loud too. Why do we shout so much?
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Mixed bag with some good snow today. Red and black down the front to setaz were good predictable hard snow with some soft on top. So predictable I opted to bring the 9 year old down her first black. No one on them maybe that's why they were nice?
run to Vernays unpleasant brittle hard pack. Really felt like it needed sun to melt it, no sun today.
Nice powder in parts and nicer pistes on side of setaz leading down to the Montassot lift. Very nice powder and pistes on the opposite side, the setaz side of crey de quart, and some nice pistes and side piste up on the front of crey de quart
Haven't gotten over to the valmenier side yet, hopefully tomorrow
Very cold, balaclava on, goggles freezing in the wind, in the last days of March!
Good barometer for snow conditions is the lutins blue run I ski to my apartment. even at 4 pm the snow is excellent on it until about a hundred meters vertical before you reach the first apartments, so maybe until 1600m or so, fantastic condition for a home run this late. Even after that it's just sugar snow as opposed to wet slush
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 You know it makes sense.
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Great day skiing yesterday as the sun finally came out. Some of the best piste conditions I've skied on the Crey du Quart side of Valloire in the morning, with very enjoyable side piste. Then skied over to Valmenier where conditions were also good with still soft powder to be had in the afternoon. I suspect a guide would be able to find good cold wind accumulated powder over the coming days but it seems to be full sun now so that will presumably change conditions. Still, very decent snow pack and mountains are very white so should be very enjoyable for anyone heading out.
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 Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
Otherwise you'll just go on seeing the one name:
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Today is the first day that the strong sun is starting to show but the snow is holding up really well especially above about 1800m. Just finished lunch on the balcony in a pair of shorts and a t-shirt. What spring skiing is all about.
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 Poster: A snowHead
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Oof, it’s so long since I wrote anything!
We didn’t get to see the film after all. The navettes stop soon after 6pm so we would have had to walk there and back (over 2km each way) in the driving snow and cold. We just chickened out. Here in Lanslebourg we found a memorial to Flambeau the world’s first avalanche rescue dog.
https://www.haute-maurienne-vanoise.com/en/flambeau-le-chien-vaguemestre/
The forecast for Tuesday wasn’t great so we opted to have a second go at the ski rando route up to the col as this was mostly amongst trees. It didn’t go well as Mrs A had a meltdown when her skins started slipping again on some tricky bits. And when we got to the col the bitter wind was bringing up swirls of snow so that at times we could barely see. Still, we were 15 minutes faster than last time. Once again we were entertained by the old woman in the bar which was busy with clients escaping the weather. Then back down Escargot again where we saw more bits of old tunnel.
Wednesday saw better weather but we needed a rest and some retail therapy. Having decided we’d better get some new skins we made a tour of the local ski shops. We started at Jeannot Sports in Lanslevillard where they had one type of Colltex for 170 euros. Not sure if this was the right choice we carried on, and on, along the way buying some rather nice Thermic touring gloves. After lunch we drove down the valley to Traversaz Sports in St Michel where we’d been last year. They had some to rent but none for sale so she directed us to Sport 2000 in St Jean. There they had a selection to chose from but only in limited sizes. We ended up with a pair of, you guessed it, Colltex Todi Crystals for 180. Then home again where I cut them to fit and we packed ready for the next two days.
Thursday, we were up at 6 and after breakfast and a bit of repacking we drove to Termignon and then up the road to the park as far as the barrier by the first wiggle. It was gone 8:15 when we set off - over 3/4 hour later than we’d planned. We started on foot up the path on intermittent snow until, at about 1600m, we donned skins and continued on skis. Just after Le Suffet we popped back onto the road and continued on until, just inside the park boundary, we bore off up the hill to cut out some of its zigzagging. We stopped at the Chapelle Sainte Marguerite before 12:30 for lunch - much needed. Then carried on until we arrived quire exhausted at the Refuge Plan du Lac just after 2:30. What a luxurious place! Twice before (2009 and 2014) we’d stayed in the winter room as it was unmanned but now Juliette has opened it during the touring season. There’s even real toilets and hot water! Perhaps the most striking feature is the life-sized model of a gypaete hanging from the ceiling. Juliette is excellent at her job - attentive, hard working and coped with our funny diets with ease. Clearly another Claire in the making.
https://refuge-plandulac.vanoise.com/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bearded_vulture
Friday we left at about 8:30 in bitter cold and headed up another 600m or so to the Pointe Lanserlia (2903m). Trouble was, the snow on the last 100m or so was really hard and, nearly at the ridge, Mrs A slipped during a kick turn and slid at least 10m down the hill. All quite frightening but she pulled it all together and we made it to the top. In hindsight, we should had looked at the last pitch and chosen to fit couteaux before we got there. On the top we had a bite to eat while we look in the fantastic view then headed down first hard then crusty snow to the Col de Lanserlia where we stopped for lunch. Then down lovely soft spring snow back to the road near the park boundary. After a bit of uphill we had a leisurely slide all the way down the road until the snow ran out at about 1500m.
Today, Saturday is a half-price day on the lifts so we had a leisurely time on and off piste around the Grand Coin drag above Termignon. The snow is definitely softening now in the warmer temperatures and, this evening, we could see far more bare patches around the lower slopes. Around 6pm we could hear loud booms of blasting by the pisteurs and there was a large wet slide down the large bowl above the Arcelle chair - where the large stone pyramids protect the top station.
Last edited by Poster: A snowHead on Sun 5-04-26 12:20; edited 1 time in total
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 Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
Obviously A snowHead isn't a real person
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@altis, We’re staying in Lanslebourg, Les Champs and heard the avalanche triggers last night when walking back to the appartment and spotted the snow on the move too.
Looks like another warm one today, in fact a warm week!
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 Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
Well, the person's real but it's just a made up name, see?
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We needed a day off from skiing to give our feet a chance to recover.
This morning we took another load of washing up the Lanslevillard. After we had got on the bus the driver had trouble closing the door. After several attempts he got up and fiddled with a handle above the door which, from the noise, was purging a pneumatic system. Still no joy so he did the same with the handle above the back door. Still nothing so he went outside, lifted a panel near the back doors and tried a third time. This was much louder but then we noticed that the bus was rolling backwards! I got up ready to do something while he ran back in and flipped the hand brake. Phew! And the doors now worked too.
In Lanslevillard we used the other launderette that we found. It’s part of the new Balcons complex and has newer, less temperamental machines, and is cheaper. While we waited we wandered down to the Brasserie Bowling for coffees - expensive, awful service, not going again. Then after moving our washing to the drier we wandered around the Balcons complex. Seems to be smart and full of Belgians this week whilst the Platinum bit is well up market with a spa and underground parking. Coming back we had the same bus driver.
https://www.les-balcons.com/en/accommodation/les-balcons-platinium-val-cenis/
After lunch we took on the Circuit des Mandes trail. This leads from the tourist office of Lanslebourg up onto the sunny, North side of the valley then along to Lanslevillard and back. It’s nearly 12km long but there’s plenty of up and down and peaks at about 1850m where the snow was still thick and solid. In trail shoes and no poles it was all getting a bit dodgy but we survived.
https://www.valcenis.com/en/equipement/circuit-des-mandes-trail-val-cenis/
In Lanslevillard we stopped at the Tabac cum gift shop for small Panaches. Nearly 10 euros! No wonder it was quiet. Then back along the South side of the valley past the church and some old buildings and, on the outskirts of the town, a holiday association place. Prices seem very reasonable at around 600 euros per person per week, full board and lodging including lift pass.
https://www.cis-valcenis.com/en/prices/winter-prices/
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 You need to Login to know who's really who.
You need to Login to know who's really who.
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Back home now and wow what a trip. I know we’re all heavily influenced by snow conditions (which were fantastic from last Sunday-Tuesday fresh fluffy snow on a big base with great skiing amongst trees then Wednesday to Friday bluebird on perfect pistes) but I am now an official massive fan of the Maurienne. Thank you everyone on here that have provided info and opinions that influenced my choice.
Loved the smaller resorts. Really felt like we had our own private ski areas for large portions of the week. Les Karellis x 2, Aussois, Galibier and Val Cenis. All great days out.
My first trip to Val Thorens was great for the snow and wide expansive pistes. But I’d already been spoiled and found the scrum for a couple of gondolas and certain busy pistes (pretty sure it was quiet for 3V) slightly annoying - v first world problems!!
I do slightly worry about the financial viability of these smaller resorts with those numbers. They’re high so presumably have a reasonable future but with the instagram effect funnelling more and more towards the super resorts how can they maintain or upgrade lift systems?
Use this amazing area whilst we have it. You won’t be disappointed.
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 Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
Anyway, snowHeads is much more fun if you do.
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@MHskier, I am the same only our last ski day was Wednesday, which was glorious sun and cold snow after 3 dark and very cold days, about as good a ski day as you can have but it's left me with a taste in my mouth for more so I'm going to have to head somewhere in the next few weeks. To be honest I think that will have clouded our view of the resorts. A lot of people were saying this easter had the best conditions they've experienced. They will have a lot to live up to on future visits.
Per a planet ski article val thorens was at 91% occupancy last week so pretty busy. the other resorts have a lot going for them in terms of reasonably high lifts and many north facing so I'm surprised they aren't going more for the late season market. I do note val cenis is open for the week after easter, which is unusual, and bonneval for two. Valloire was also doing free child passes with an adult one for the second week.
Maybe it's just that there is a limited easter and after market, most europeans aren't thinking about skiing at that time. The big high altitude places have that market sown up, they still charge high prices and still get large numbers.
I suppose most people also book long in advance and are worried about snow conditions outside of those high resorts which is fair enough. I am happy to book last minute but most aren't.
Maybe more free ski pass options for the first week of easter would help. Or they could go aggressively for the easter and later market with cheap accommodation and pass deals. People who book packages would be drawn by that if they saw the numbers and savings in front of them.
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 You'll need to Register first of course.
You'll need to Register first of course.
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Oof, it’s a schlep down to Karellis from here. But it’s worth it as it’s one of our favourite ski stations. We didn’t set off particularly early but it was well gone 11 by the time we arrived.
As usual, we first headed left to try the blues around the long (and slow) Arpons chair. On the pistes the snow was like sticky porridge and off it was the same but with a thick skin on. We persisted for a while but then headed back to find a picnic spot. All the tables at the top of Vinouve were taken but we found empty ones near the bottom of the Tete d’Albiez drag.
In the afternoon we tried out much of what’s available from the Fontagnoix chair. The snow was getting progressively softer but still not easy going. We stopped for Cokes at the bar at the bottom (no music this time) then looped a few times on the Chaudannes chair to finish off. We had a peek over the edge down to Albiez which still had a good covering of snow - shame they shut so early. We were back in the car park soon after 4:30. We could have squeezed in another run but we were too tired really. Even then the snow on the front de neige was still holding up well with no slushy bits like we’ve often seen.
Travelling back we noticed how green it’s already starting to get in the lower valley - looks very pretty. And it was so warm this evening that we had the balcony door open until 8pm.
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Phew! Another scorcher today! Starting to be very slushy & sugary from first thing at the Pre Novel lift. Spent the day as high up as possible around Mont Cenis before dropping down for lunch. Only managed a couple of runs before calling it a day this afternoon, far too hot for me so I hit the pool while Mr M chased more miles around the Solert lift.
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We opted out all together! We had planned to go to Bonneval today but we were both tired when we got up this morning. Probably something to do with playing in porridge yesterday in Karellis.
So we had a walk around the village all the way to the roundabout at the western edge where we took photos of a rock that had fallen down the hillside and very nearly broken through the gabion wall protecting the road. Then back along the river to the road bridge and found a 10 euro note. Then into the little Sherpa for some shopping just before it closed.
After lunch we hopped on a C1 navette (only 4 a day) all the way down to Termignon to visit the marmots exhibition in the tourist office. All in French but still entertaining and informative. Then we went on a self-guided walk around the town (Explore Termignon A Pied #1) which was interesting.
When we’d finished we stopped at the Bar du Centre for more panaches (only 6 euros) and the nice proprietor showed us photos of his chalet at Entre Deux Eaux, a helicopter lifting one of his 14 cows, and his grandchildren.
Timetables for all the busses in the Maurienne:
https://hmvt.download/SitesWeb/hmv-guide-mobilite.pdf
Marmots exhibition:
https://www.vanoise-parcnational.fr/fr/fiche-apidae/exposition-la-tribu-des-marmottes-hiver
Explore Termignon a Pied:
https://www.valcenis.com/en/equipement/explore-termignon-on-foot-discovering-the-village-val-cenis/
We are now up to 60 points each on our Skiogrande cards. Tomorrow is double points so, I think, that’ll take us to 80 each - so a free day. We’d get most benefit by using it at Orelle but we can’t be bothered with all those crowds so we’ll stay in Val Cenis instead.
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 You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
You'll get to see more forums and be part of the best ski club on the net.
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We stayed local today and skied around Val Cenis. We made the mistake early on of trying to come down the red Fort which was unbashed and rock hard. Stupid really ‘cos if we’d looked we would have seen it on our way up the Mont Cenis drag. Legs now very warm and tingly we wandered over to the Ranova for hot chocolates. Then all the way down to the bottom and back up Columba where, for the first time this holiday, we shared a chair with someone else. Then up the Arcellles chair for a good view of the big wet slide.
Then back up to the top of Vieux Moulin where we ate our lunch on the balcony next to the lift station. Then a few laps of Solert then up Met for the view at the top then wiggled down to Arcellins to get back up to the col where, along with many others, we had panaches sat on plastic chairs outside the Relais du Col, on the piste on top of the road.
Then we wiggled home, using Vieux Moulin for one last time, and finding the odd run that we’d not used before for an early finish just after 4pm.
Despite the warm weather, the pistes are still holding up well with just a few closures - and one of those is from avalanche risk. But things are starting to look a bit bare at the bottom. In Termignon especially, there’s just a ribbon of piste running across a meadow.
https://www.valcenis.com/en/info-neige-et-pistes-alpin/
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@altis, I'm enjoying all your updates, it sounds lovely and quiet. It's interesting learning about all the extra stuff that isn't just downhill skiing.
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